THE MEAL
anuary must have been a
difficult month for chef
Tony Borthwick. Not only were the workmen back in the restaurant sorting out a few snags after infuriating delays getting the place open before Christmas. but Borthwick also learned that the Plumed l-lorse. recently relocated from near (‘astle Douglas to lidinburgh. had not won a Michelin Star.
‘Timef Borthwick says. ‘to start all over again. We need to keep progressing.‘
A challenge. indeed. given the praise he had garnered in his quiet corner of Dumfries and Galloway. particularly given the competitive fine-dining market in lidinburgh. A challenge in taking on an unlikely site. previously home to a couple of unmemorable Indian restaurants.
Still. with the Vintners Rooms. Restaurant Martin Wishart and The Kitchin all nearby. there was talk that he‘d be setting the seal on l.eitb‘s elevation to Scotland‘s gourmet postcode. (ireat. therefore. was the expectation.
The Plumed Horse isn‘t. to be fair. blowing its own trumpet. though it is charging high prices — £36 for a starter and main from the a la carte. £19.50 for two courses at lunch. The food offers that classic line-dining marriage: good quality Scottish ingredients and l‘rench techniques. A twice- baked souffle intensifying a tangy Mull cheddar. a Aberdeen Angus beef that has been long braised into a rich intensity. There‘s freshly baked bread. some satisfying desserts. a predominantly lirench wine list.
It‘s line. but not sensational. Not everything is particularly convincing: creamed leek tart
rather dominating some chunks of
roast monklish. some dryish pork. What stands out. however. is the underwhelming atmosphere.
streets of La Paz
PAGE 100
daube of
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Lacklustre
The Plumed Horse will have to go all out if it is to avoid falling behind its Leith competitors.
‘IT ISN'T BLOWING ITS OWN TRUMPET BUT IT IS CHARGING HIGH PRICES'
LiStS
.i second g i}? Life's first .. newspaper columnist PAGE99
THE PLUMED HORSE
Reservations are usually essential
.11". 2‘ ,6 93;». ' . ‘~ Wlth " Simon Pe g and Nrc Frost PAGEflZ
50—54 Henderson Street. Leith, Edinburgh 0131 554 5556, www.plumedhorse.oo.uk TuaFri 12.30—2.30pm; Tue—Sat 7—10pm: closed lvlon
Quality Scottish ingredients and Frenoh iteohnioueis ii i i
Upmarket dining rooms can be
stilted and demure at the best of
times. but the lack of plumage on the Horse seems to drain the place. It‘s crying out for a splash of real colour among the yellow- hooded chairs set against pale olive walls. A vase of flowers which has been stuffed rather than arranged and the Bee (ices on the
stereo don‘t help the insipidity. ls this a country style. which comes over as shy in the cosmopolitan city'.’ Perhaps. Or an attempt to appeal to refined. gentrified lidinburgh‘.’ Maybe. bttt plenty of diners. younger ones in particular. are surely seeking a bit of verve and style. however fine the food promises to be.
if} lob ‘. Mar Pitt)? THE LIST 97