What’s rotten in the state of Denmark? Very little, as Allan Radcliffe discovers during a festive mini-break.
nce upon a time. there was a pint-sized kingdom in northern Iiurope. which formed the centre of an empire that stretched from the Atlantic to Africa. the (‘aribbean and India . . .
This tnay sound a familiar prelude. but here the similarities between the southernmost of the Nordic countries and our own little island end. 21st century Denmark does not allow its imperialist past nor its precarious geographical location — sandwiched between the Baltic and the North Sea -— to overshadow its status as a thriving state within the Iiuropean union.
()n a recent festive visit to the Danish capital. I was struck by how easy it is to experience the contrasting faces of the city in a relatively short space of time. Like Iidinburgh. (‘openhagen is a compact place. with the added bonus of being rich in punctual public transport. thus ideal for an action-packed mini-break.
While (‘openhagen wears its long history on its sleeve. its salute to past glories is well integrated with modern life. This harmonious interface of the traditional with the innovative is exemplified by the Danish royal family. who reside at the sprawling but accessible Amalienborg complex. which consists of four palaces built around an octagonal courtyard. liar from floating regally above her subjects. the chain-smoking Danish queen. Margarethe II. exemplifies the down-to-earth ‘bicycling monarchy". freely granting interviews. renowned as an accomplished translator. designer and artist whose illustrations were used for the Danish version of Lord of the Rings.
Stretched across the heart of the city centre is the Tivoli (iardens. a beautiful amusement park replete with stomach-birling coasters. gentle rides and a concert
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hall. which hosts ballet and classical music performances. My partner and l were content to enjoy the range of kitsch festive tableaux with a glass of glog (mulled wine) while strolling through tree-lined avenues. lit with lanterns. which create a romantic. fairytale atmosphere. perfectly suited to the adopted city of Hans (‘hristian Andersen.
The creator of such iconic works as The lint/)vrur's New (Yul/It’s. Andersen‘s influence can still be seen across the city. His face stares out from statues and there is a new
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Gardens (main pic) is . pleasantly full of festive kitsch, while Danish icons such as the Amalienborg palace (right), and the Little Mermaid, are kitsch all year long
museum dedicated to his work in (‘ity Hall Square. The small statue of the Little Mermaid. which resides in (‘openhagen harbour. is the city‘s most popular attraction. though not everyone who has visited the Mermaid appreciates her serenity - she has twice been decapitated in 30 years. Meandering around the centre of Copenhagen. you can‘t help bill be impressed by grand historical buildings as the Amalienborg. the imposing Radhus ((‘ity Hall) and King (‘hristian IV‘s Round Tower with its ZIOm-long spiral stairway. which winds tip to an exquisite view of the city. When the sun goes down these historical sights are eclipsed by the lights from the many trendy bars and restaurants (including a small but vibrant gay scene) as the city's young population comes out to play. ('openhagen is also a bustling shopping hub. home to the world‘s longest pedestrianised thoroughfare. reflecting the country's ongoing economic prosperity and the amount of
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NOT EVERYONE APPRECIATES THE LITTLE MERMAID - SHE HAS TWICE BEEN DECAPITATED IN 30 YEARS
disposable income enjoyed by most (‘openhagers A word to the
wise: those seeking quirky alternatives to the usual High Street names should head for the narrower streets leading off from City Hall Square in the direction of the harbour.
Venture further afield. and it's immediately evident that the resurgent suburbs are also sharing in the spoils of the country‘s prosperity. Nowhere is this more obvious than in the Vesterbro (Western District). once one of the city's poorer areas. now home to numerous chic cafes. hotels and restaurants. including an impressive ten Michelin—starred eateries. Iiating out can be eye-wateringly expensive. even by [K standards. so it’s worth being discerning when choosing where to enjoy a bite. The (‘arlton Caft‘. a former prostitutes' hotel in the Vesterbro. offers a decent range of good quality
main meals WIN 2.5333
and snacks. including fish ‘ Turn to p67
and vegetarian
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