But. quite akin to Scotland. Iceland is blessed with some excellent local produce: lamb. seafood and tinned fish. in particular. So. at the well- (irilld. atop the SAS Hotel. a
esteemed Radisson
THERE'S MORE TO ICELANDIC CUISINE THAN UN-PC WHALE MEAT, PUFFIN BREAST AND PUTREFIED SHARK MEAT
contemporary French-leaning tasting menu ranges from a goose liyer starter (less lull-on than l‘oie gras) to a bit ol‘ seared sole seryed with satnphire (literally translated from Icelandic as ‘sea grass) and a yenison meat dish.
EAT&D R I N K ‘
In the city centre. liinar Ben restaurant sery‘es up ambitious. modern dishes in the traditional setting of a Wood panelled first floor dining space. Pickled herring is finely minced into tartar and serycd in a small toyy er \yith a beetroot reduction. lilounder lillets hayc a herhy crust. accompanied by a lime ‘heurre hlanche' inl‘used pilloyy ol mash.
Is it limited to the city'.’ On the so-called \yhale ljord. the (ilymur hotel‘s split-leyel double rooms. with sleeping lol-ts on a me/xanine. oy'erlook the sea on one side and the heather dotted treeless mountainside on the other. An eleyated hoardyyalk leads to a pair of rather spectacularly situated hot ltlhs.
Such alluring attributes in such a wild setting don't guarantee good food. But here. seemingly well
past the back or beyond. a chet~ turns out supremely executed it
stl'ztlglttlot‘yyard dishes. Langoustine tails (scryed atop
their empty tail shells) come with seared scallops. \yhile three-inch thick medallions ol' lamb are pink and tender.
While the traditional growing
season is short and the amount of
arable land limited. lceland seems to make the best of its resources. Thanks to the geothermal supply ol heat (pipelines ol' nearly boiling water snake throughout the countryside). I suspect the supply ol greenhouse tomatoes is t‘airly consistent. too. Steamy poly tunnels haye plants in early autumn \yhich are literally as tall as a house.
\Vhat’s beneficial (or the fruit seems good l‘or us as well. Back in
the capital. there is a clutch of
thermal pools. \Vhile less impressiye than the Blue Lagoon near the airport. the local baths in Reykjayik are well worth a Visit to wind down. Betyyeen thermal treatments. shots of Reyka and the cuisine. l warmed to this island on the fringes of the .-\rctic ('ircle.
\.'./\.'t/\'.'.diink.1y".ial‘e.(:o.uk.
I The G1 Group, based in Glasgow, has launched the Granary in Leith (above). The latest of the company’s 40- plus ventures, the restaurant and bar serves traditional dishes such as seafood chowder or cheese souffle, as well as smoked halibut with fig compote. The Granary, 32- 34 Shore, Edinburgh, 0131 554 9465.
I Yet. lest anyone fear that Stefan King's empire has no bounds, word recently arrived that (31 has sold the Junkyard Dog (once Oblomov) to the Republic Bier Halle. which will be taking over the premises — having closed a branch on Sauchiehall Street earlier in the year.
I Kudos to the team at Urban Grill for landing a Remy Award for best regional restaurant from London-based Harden’s guide. The List was ahead of the curve, naming the Glasgow brasserie best new restaurant of the year in April. To book, call 0141 649 2745.
To (140thth Christmas. the makers of Sillil'llUii Black ‘.'odka. a rare vodka ‘.'.'llll rare character are otienng i you the chance to enio‘, lunch for two at 'lhe\"."'lt(:hel‘;. in Edinburgh or at the Ul)l(ltlli()tlt$Cllll)ll‘Gl£155{)()\'.’. The ‘.'.’ll ll l(}t'53 y'all alsx; rtxxxve a sty llfSll bottle of Smunoll Black No 55 to take home.
Made tlf3li'lt} the 18th century method of cohoer pot diatillation. Smirnoff Black it; a nodka .'.'|ll‘. rounded smoothness; real substance. heritage and depth of character.
lo enter. Jtlf§l send ai‘ etnail marked "Bl ACIK SMIRNOF l-' to l)l'()ltl()ll()llf§<1llfit.\i(?.lli\ or a postcard to We ltsat. 1-! High Street. 'Ldinlnirgih. l'l'll til i“, no later than LS .Jan I‘Lftle liltiants; must he over 1%? years; of age. Usual! .s‘.’ vulet; apply.
1.).1': Q THE LIST 113