The nature of the beastie
As famous for its spectacular scenery and abundant wildlife as for the decadent lifestyle of its past owners, the Isle of Rum is also notorious for rain and violent insects, as Caroline Pretty discovers.
board the good ship lxn‘lutet‘is‘. approaching the Isle of Rum. we applied insect repellent and pulled on our waterproofs with an air of grim
determination. The island is one of
the wettest places in Scotland. with the highest rainfall in the Inner Hebrides. and its midges are legendary for their size. ferocity and sheer number. Fortunately. as the ferry docked in the calm waters of Loch Scresort. on the island‘s sheltered east coast. the sun broke clear of the morning‘s dreich mist. and the lightest of breezes fluttered the flags on the clutch of yachts moored scenically in the bay. Enough to keep the little blighters away. for now at least.
On arrival we were greeted at the jetty by staff from Kinloch Castle. where we would be staying the following night. who had helpfully agreed to transport our food. drink and other supplies (OK. so it was mostly drink) ahead in their Land Rover. For now though. we had to strap on our backpacks in preparation for the 9km hike to Dibidil. on the west of the island. where a simple bothy would be our resting place for the night.
Since 1957 Rum has been a national nature reserve. owned and managed by Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH). Consequently. it has become a haven for a wide array of plant and wildlife. including red deer. feral goats. otters. seals. lizards and rare birds. Arriving at the bothy after three hours of walking. we were glad to put down our packs and take a refreshing dip in the cool. crystal waters of a nearby stream. Later. after a good dinner and a few drinks by the fire. we slept soundly beneath a clear. star-studded sky.
The next day we returned by a different route — through the bleak. lunar landscape of the Rum
Cuillin. Standing on the summit of
Ainshval. one of the two (‘orbetts
in the range. it was hard to imagine the island as anything other than a beautiful. windswept wilderness. So it was surprising to discover that this “forbidden island‘ was kept as a lavish playground for the fabulously wealthy Bullough family.
Purchased in 1888 by the rich industrialist John Bullough as a shooting estate. by the turn of the century the island had become the Neverland Ranch of its day. If John's tastes tended towards the luxurious then those of his son. George. were positively outlandish. resulting in the three— year construction of Kinloch Castle. a magnificent Iidwardian pleasure palace designed to accommodate as much ostentation and gadgetry as a nineteenth century playboy could wish for.
A guided tour of the castle (daily. adults £5. under-16s £2) offers a fascinating insight into the
BY THE TURN
OF THE CENTURY THE ISLAND
HAD BECOME
THE NEVERLAND RANCH OF ITS DAY
TRAVELi~j¥
eccentric tastes and hedonistic lifestyles of its former owners. The castle features an array of (for its time) remarkable technology. from central heating and electric lights to a rare mechanical ()rchestrion (an automated organ with numerous pipes and percussion instruments. designed to give the impression of a full orchestra) that was originally built for Queen Victoria.
Interesting day walks include the deserted crofting village of Harris (a six-hour round trip) where the Bullough family mausoleum stands in incongruous Greek Doric splendour overlooking the Atlantic. or the pristine white sands of Kilmory Bay (a five-hour round trip) tip on the north coast (access may be restricted at certain times of year — check with the SNH reserve office). Kinloch village is the hub of island life with a small shop/post office. and
Red deer rule on Rum, except at the outlandish Kinloch Castle (below)
the community social centre/occasional pub. which also operates as a cafe serving afternoon tea in summer.
As the Monday ferry back to Mallaig slipped moorings and headed for open water. waved off by the friendly hostel staff and cheered by the cries of kittiwakes circling above. the temptation to leap off and stay a bit longer was almost overwhelming.
FACTFILE
When to go The island's midges and horse flies are at their worst between .June and August. so late spring and autumn are great times to visit. In May there's a three-day festival of traditional Scottish music. See wwwsoundofrumorg.uk.
Getting there Caledonian MacBrayne (0 t 687 462403. wmvcalmaccouk) runs a regular ferry service to Rum throughout the year from Mallaig (foot passengers only). During the summer there are also boat trips to the island from Arisaig (01687 460224. www.arisaig.co.uk). Accommodation Dormitory accommodation in Kinloch Castle Hostel (open Mar—Oct. 01687 462037) costs $13 a night. and double bedrooms are 1‘60 a night. including breakfast. Also in Kinloch is Lea Cottage (Fiona Talbot. 01687 462036). offering bed. breakfast and dinner for £45 a night per person. The bothy at Dibidil is open all year round; there is also a bothy at Guirdil Bay. which must be booked through the SNH reserve office (01687 462026). which also runs a camping area on the shore of Loch Screson. close to Kinloch.
Go prepared The small but well~ stocked community shop in Kinloch opens most days. 5-7.30pm. so you're best advised to buy ahead.
1:) Oct -2 Nov 2006 THE LIST 97