The living lS easy and the beer IS cheap
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EAT THERE THIS FORTNIGHT
Censorship H
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Kitchin delivery
Leith’s latest marks a welcome addition to the culinary culture of the capital, says Barry Shelby.
The Kitchin is located in Commercial Quay, in a row of units facing the Scottish
Executive building which has seen a rapid turnover of restaurants in recent years.
Restaurateur Tom Kitchin took time off at the beginning of August to wed his business
partner, Michaela Berselius. The couple were back at work two days later.
n a to\\ n \\ ith a penchant l'or iising puns. it came as a rchcl to hear that this ne\\ restaurant in |.eith is not depltning one. :\lthough chel' and ouner 'I'om Kitchin “as \aguel_\ asking l’or a misunderstanding h) using the delinite article ‘the' in his operations name. there is no conlusion when it comes to the qualit} ol' the cooking he ol'lers. the restaurant's ma\im 'l'rom nature to plate‘ is not perhaps the most elegant ol' aphorisms. hut it is a reduction ol‘ Kitchin‘s apparent philosophy his ethos hoiled doun to its essence. it )ou like. This means. ol' course. quite a lot ol local sourcing. \\hcther pork lroin .-\}i'shii'c'. mange tout i—‘roun on .'\rran or l'resh lish landed in the [cast \euk. (iood ingredients. houe\er. are just a hcginning. Kitchin's kitchen di\P|a}s an assured touch and the restaurant's set— price lunch ol'l‘ers great \alue. l’rom an alternoon menu ol~ l\\o starters and a pair ol mains (which el'l'ecti\el_\ change daih l. anticipate dishes such as
pumpkin ra\ioli ser\ed \xith KITCHIN'S
rocket. Parmesan and pancetta or roast cod \xith oli\e crushed potatoes in tomato .ius. 'l‘uo courses cost just U250 and lill'c‘c‘ raises the ilttlc‘ [H b l 5.5”.
A starter ol' cured .-\hru//i ham has heen sliced into Virtuall} translucent pieces. I serVed \\ ith a conlit ol' leeks. a host ol‘ \egetahles talso cut ra/or thini. organic greens and a hit ol‘ toast that is slathered with a meat} concentrate that resemhles marmite. Squid can on!) he cooked tuo \xa)s: \er} hot and quickl} or steu ed met a lou heat. I personth l'axour the hunter. hut Kitchin demonstrates that the patienth hraised method can render the sea inollusc most succulent tthough the accompan} ing tomato and l‘ennel sauce is slightl} insipidi.
A main course ol’ pork hell} is highlighted h} the accompan}ing auhergine ca\iar; the slice ol' meat. surcl} sltm' roasted. has heen crisped in a hot pan hel'ore ser\ ing. The other option 7 megrim hegs l‘or explanation and the stall. is read): the lish. not olten sc‘l'\c’ti in this countr} hut apparentl} \alued on the continent. is a cross hetueen turhot and sole. .-\ health} slah is ser\ ed on the hone. helping to ensure that the flesh remains moist.
The choice til~ alters ls Lt cream} (nc‘l'sl/L‘d thimhle til panacotta. surrounded h} a rampart ol' l'resh raspherries. or a selection ol‘ Scottish and Hench cheese tser\ed on the Kitchin’s signature ser\ ing platter ol' cork i.
.-\ll dishes are explained when sc‘l'\c‘ti. although the stalls deliver} is occasionth too quick to completel} comprehend. But that is a mere quihhle — as are any other minor gripes ahout the Kitchin. It should not he damned h} the l'aint praise ol‘heing called 'promising.' It is ahead} delixering.
The Kitchin, 78 Commercial Quay, Leith, 0131 555 1755. ' ' THE LIST 97