ol yyalking trails make this an easy and pleasant area to e\plore. and
lllL‘ perl‘ect place it) clear your
head alter one too many l‘ree tastings in the sake hreyyeries.
llaying shamelessly plundered the treehies in 'lakayama. it is time to head for the hills. liar trom the skyscrapers ol' Shinjuku. Japan‘s traditional domestic architecture is simply a joy to behold. Noyy here is this hetter demonstrated than in the l';\'l'18('() World Heritage- listed \illages ol Shirakaua-go and (iokayama. ('linging to the sides of the dramatic Shokayy'a Valley. these ancient settlements tamed for their unique architectural style known as ‘gassho-/ukuri'. Roughly translated as ‘hands in pray er". the term refers to the houses. sICL‘Pl.‘ pitched l‘UUlh. \yltlL‘lt are sitld l0 resemhle pairs of tightly clasped hands. Shirakayyara-go is the easiest ot‘ the \illages to get to. \yith seyeral huses running daily from 'l'akayama (although there are ten er in winter). Many of the houses are open to the public. A stay in one ot‘ the delightful gassho-/ukuri inns in the Village is recommended. You may need to practice your Japanese first. as little linglish is spoken.
l'rom Shirakayyara-go. I caught another hits north to Kana/ayya. a \ihrant. largely modern city \y hose attractions include a pretty geisha district. handsome samurai houses. and a thriying local cral't trade \yith artisan \y'orkshops creating lacquer \\ are. porcelain and intricate gold-leat' \york. lloyyeyer. by far the most famous and popular sight here is the Kenroku- en garden. \yhich is justit'iahly
96 THE LIST 'fv cu. £3.11
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classil'icd as one ol- .lapan's most
beautiful landscape gardens. Dating from the l7th century. Kenroku-en \y as designed according to an ancient (‘hinese theory of the si\ 'suhlimities' required for the perfect garden: spaciousness. seclusion. artiliciality. antiquity. ahundant outer and hroad Views (on a clear day you can see the Sea ol .lapant. lney'itahly‘. the popttlarity that comes with such perfection means the garden can get yery busy. so get there early to heat the croyyds. Kana/ayy'a's proximity to the sea is ey'ident in the local ‘kaga ryori' cuisine. characterised by its tempting seal'ood dishes. Although
lacking the l‘renetic energy ol
'l‘okyo‘s famous 'l'sukiii fish market. Kana/ayya's ()micho market otters some great places to enjoy cheap. delicious sushi in authentic local surroundings (look out for the places \yith the longest queues). And. unlike 'l‘sukiji. you needn‘t feel compelled to get there
‘Gassho-zukuri‘ houses in the Shokawa Valley (main picture) and a shrine in Nikko (bottom right) contrast sharply with contemporary Shinjuku
at 5am tor the pleasure.
lleading sottllt [U Kyoto proy ides yet another perspectiye on this l‘ascinating country. and lurther chance to e\pericnce the l'antastic shinkansen. llaying heen spared the hlanket homhing that
destroy ed tttosl ol lids)” and other
major cities in World War II. Kyoto has retained its traditional architecture. not to mention its uniquely rich cultural assets.
llotne to literally tliotisands ot’
ancient temples. shrines and /en gardens. it can he ditticult to knoyy \yhcre to begin. The 'l‘etsugaku-no— .\lichi (or 'l’ath ol' l’llllttstd’lfid is a delightlul canal—side \yalk that meanders past seyeral important sites. .-\s night t‘alls. the city‘s lamous geisha districts most notath (iion start to tyyinkle \yith hright paper lanterns and echo \y ith the sounds ol music and laughter. It‘s an otheryyorldly. enchanting place that is pertect tor \yandering. and rellecting at the end ot a \yondertul trip.
to. 1‘“ .5.
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When to go
Getting there and around
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