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liven following the fall of Franco‘s regime. production didn't boom again until the 80s. partially helped by the increasing volume of Spaniards who starth to holiday in the cooler climes of the northern provinces to escape the stilling heat of inland cities.
()ne of the beneficiaries of the turnaround is Petretegi. the pick of the larger sidrerias. which produces over a million litres annually. Given the number of bottles that roll out of its doors every year. this. like all sidrerias. is pleasantly rustic. the farmhouse set against the lush. rolling landscape. lt‘s situated along with a cltrster of others around the village of Astigaragga. just six kilometres south of San Sebastian. It's an ideal starting point for any cider trek given the excellent standard of help and instruction available. Half the fun of enjoying the sidra is to be had in its pouring and the untutored hand can certainly falter. The ‘throwing' of the cider is absolutely vital in that it aerates the previously flat sirlra natural. creating a gaseous. foamy head and enhancing the bouquet. ()ur hosts at Petretegi were good enough to let us see this being done straight from the enormous. freshly tapped chestnut barrels. You're then encouraged to down the modestly filled glass in a single gulp to retain and savour the integrity of the flavour. And what a flavour. lt truly does fit the description of ‘apple wine': smooth with a refreshingly bitter bite. If you visit during the rum season. between the months of szuary and May. when the freshly fermented cider is ready for bottling. this ritual can become quite riotous with loud cries of ‘r.vor.v‘ coming from the gathered crowd each time it's perfonned.
98 THE LIST 22 Jun—6 Jul 2006
Just a little further down the road. and after much wrangling over
‘designated driver‘ status. we witnessed the more widely
practiced method of throwing bottled cider in the smaller sidreria. Sarasola. In this case we watched in awe as the waiter acrobatically tipped the bottle over his head and poured it three feet down into the narrow glass without spilling a drop. From experience. I can reveal that this is inadvisable for the novice cider thrower. although many of the accommodating owners will let you have a try. These are places to commune. eat and enjoy yourself. They are also outrageously good value for money. with a bottle of cider costing little more than two euros (roughly £1.40) and most siderias offering set menus of some of the best Basque cuisine for around 20 euros (about £13) per head. including sidra. The cider is the perfect accompaniment to the slabs of meat or fresh seafood from nearby
The town beach at San Sebastian (below) is a great place to start, before heading for the sidrerias (right) or a bar to taste their produce
fishing villages. lovingly prepared over charcoal grills. Any lingering digestive effects from overindulgence can be rectified with a dessert portion of sheep‘s milk yoghurt. And more sidra.
It was a privilege to see the Basque people uphold tradition so fervently. ()f the sidrerias we visited nearly all were bulging at the seams with happy faces and
raised glasses. embracing a way of
life that has somehow held on and. thankfully. doesn‘t look like disappearing.
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