EDINBURGH FASHION FESTIVAL
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Scotland churns out over 200 fashion and textiles graduates every year, yet only a handful from anywhere in the world can expect to make it into the fashion design premier league. Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders is one of the lucky few. He talks to Morag Bruce about the essential steps to success.
Y'N.
Develop a signature
‘Spend some time really thinking what you are about as a designer in whatever field you‘re focusing on. The key is to understand that you aren't aiming to take over the whole fashion industry and cover all angles. because nobody does that. The peOple who do well are the ones who focus on a speCific skill that makes them special. Not everybody is going to like it. not everybody is going to agree with you. but it has to be personal. For instance. a lot of people use screen printing as a technique. but for me it becomes very personal when I examine the actual engineering of the method and the end result is far more intricate and difficult to achieve.‘
Use research to spark
your Imagination
‘It's not really about coming up with ideas off the top of your head without having knowledge of different fields. When I'm researching a collection, I'll look at a variety of fields from fine art to film. photography. museums and a breadth of archives. to look at how somebody has developed certain techniques. how they've used a certain balance of colour. how other creative people have developed their work. A lot of colleges view research as a case of finding an idea and referencing it heavily but doing it slightly in your Own way. However, it's more CTUCIal that you understand the process. Looking at the ways in which other creatives have used processes might spark off your own imagination. The more research you do. and in as wide a field as possible. the better. I don‘t do photography. but I look a lot at the way in which photographers use proportion and positioning in their frame. which I very much relate to the
20 THE LIST 13-27 Apr 2006
proportioning and posmoning of colour on a garment; very indirect but very much related. Research is one of the nicest parts of the Job and certainly the most inspiring. and it's important that it's part of a deSigner's signature development.‘
Put the hours in 'The fashion industry is not line art. I think the downfall of a lot of peOple who want to work in
fashion is that they think of it as not needing any
structure. You have to work extremely hard and be very focussed. One of the most important things is that you have to put the hours in. There are so many
Z people who have fallen by the waysrde and it's purely
because they don't balance the busmess srde of things with the creative. It's not all iust about haying an idea. Fashion is unique because you have to be
aware of both sides. You'll struggle if you don't have
a head for busrness.‘
’ Work experience is vital
'You must get as many different work placements as possible and expect to work for nothing. espeCially for
the first couple of years. The more you do. the better. A degree is not enough because that's not what the
industry is looking for. It is vital that you do as much as possible. Plus yOu mustn't be nervous. The industry is far less glamorous than peOple think. and people can get a little scared abOut approaching design houses. But to be honest. everybody needs help. As a young designer. you can't be cocky and say. “Oh, I don't want to work in that place. it's not cool enough." If you learn a speCific process from that experience then you can use it to get places you really want to be. Contact the deSign houses directly and be prepared to work yOur arse off.“
Don't be put off by criticism
'You cannot please everyone all the time. When you look at a designer who has had a fantastic career. Jean-Paul Gaultier for example. he's gone in and out of fashion. and he's had his share of critiCism. Because of that. he has a very strong identity and design ethic. It's about being true to y0ur own convictions and being able to take criticism on board. but then also to let it wash over yOu. The most important person to be happy about yOur work is yOu. You should be your own worst critic anyway and the sooner you understand that. the sooner you'll cope with it.’
Edinburgh Fashion Festival creative director Colin McDowell explains what he‘s out to achieve with this inaugural event.
'I have always felt there's too much focus on London as a fashion centre for the UK. when there's so much going on in creative terms in other parts of the country. While there have been opportunities in the past to hold events in other Cities in England. I Just haven't felt paSSionate that they were strong ideas and far enough removed from London. I've wanted to do something like this for a long time though. and this is a chance to do it in a great City. There is a certain attitude and quality to life that eXIsts in Scotland that you don't find anywhere else.
‘The Scots are extremely fashion conscrous and also very Willing to invest time and money in it. Thinking about iconic images of style. there are few more so than a man in a kilt. excluding perhaps a Roman centurion.
'l'm very keen to make Edinburgh a fashion destination. but not in the sense that say Milan or Paris are fashion destinations. When the fashion capitals of the world host shows. it's all for the trade. I have always thought that's a terrible shame because fashion shows are incredible events. but most people aren't privileged enough to see them. That's why this is exciting: this festival is about opening it all up to everyone. The designers involved are restaging shows for the public. which is something they would never normally do. so this really is a unique opportunity to see their work as it should be seen. not static in a photograph or on some terribly dull TV show.
‘This year's festival is truly a great way to kick things off; we have great support from local business. everyone from Harvey Nichols to little boutiques. My dream is that designers will come to Edinburgh to show their collections first. There is huge potential fer interesting and exciting things to happen in years to come as this festival develops.‘ (Intervrew by Morag Bruce)
Some general comments
‘I couldn't have done my MA at St Martins if I'd had to pay my fees. and yOung designe s coming out of Scotland should take advantage of that.
My time at Glasgow School of Art was crucial because they don't JUSI teach you about the creative: they also teach yOU skills. It has an unpretentious attitude towards developing ideas. they teach yOu not only about developing the idea. but also how the hell you‘re gomg to make it.“
I Catwalk Show. Assembly Rooms. Thu 27 Apr. 8.30pm (£40): in conversation National Ga/leries Weston Link, Thu 27 Apr. 2pm (£76).