&
On most of the western coast and isles. you're never far from wildlife. A small boat in Iona does eco-tours in search of seals. porpoises and the elusive sea eagle on its way to Staffa. Back in Tobermory. Sea Life Surveys Isealifesurveys.com) runs probably the most extensive ocean-going wildlife tours in the UK. Its evening cruise (daily from April to October) departs at around 6pm. sailing out of Tobermory‘s naturally enclosed harbour. sometimes north to Ardmore Bay for stunning sunsets over the sea. Alternatively. the boat can cross the choppy waters of the Sound of Mull and head east towards the sheltered coves of ()ronsay on the mainland‘s Morvern Peninsula. You‘re practically guaranteed to see a harbour porpoise and some seals. We cut the engines. enjoy some complimentary shortbread and a dram of Tobermory single malt. while scanning the shoreline of Morvern for a golden eagle that fishermen reportedly saw earlier in
orbit. 3"" “‘*
the day. Alas. it and any spectacular sightings of minke or killer whales elude us on this voyage — despite the efforts of a skipper who has one hand on the wheel and the other holding a pair of powerful binoculars.
We're back in Toby in time for our tea at the Water‘s Edge Restaurant in the pastel pink Tobermory Hotel. Increasingly. Mull‘s eateries feature more local produce and less fodder trucked in from hundreds of miles away. This is a relatively new development (and indeed there are still dining rooms where the fish and chips come from the deep freeze). Here. though. the menu includes mussels steamed with chillies. pan-fried seabass with Ulva Bay langoustines or shank of lamb from Glengorm — as well as wonderful cow's and unpasturised ewe's milk cheeses from Isle of Mull Cheese at nearby Sgriob- ruadh farm. Much of the credit for this welcomed trend goes to Susie Chalupa of the Mull & Iona Community Trust. She organises an annual food and drink festival in early autumn. In its first year. 100 THE LIST 30 Mar—13 Apr 2006
TRAVEL
one simple goal was to have participating restaurants put a
single dish with ingredients of
local provenance on the menu. It wasn’t necessarily easy as local farmers and fisher folk were not accustomed to selling their produce to buyers on Mull or Iona.
From the chef‘s viewpoint. she says: ‘People wanted to buy stuff. but didn’t know from whom or where.’ But links have developed and now restaurants regularly have two or more dishes that feature superb seasonal produce from the island.
Before bed in one of the cosy barn conversion garden rooms at Tobermory Holidays. a quiet retreat tucked up on the hill that rises dramatically from the port’s famously multi-hued shore-front facades. there is time to put down a pint or two. Arguably the best pub is the Mishnish. with its glowing coal fire. Outside. the quiet of an otherwise still night is broken by the sound of a strange screeching. Nature calling‘.’ Not quite. A 4x4 is circumnavigating the arc of the harbour. pulling a boat trailer whose wheels appeared to be
Views of Iona: the waterfront (main picture) and (left to right) the Sound of Iona, and the green heart of the island
locked. Having reached the end of the road. it heads back the other way. cart tyres still squealing under the strain. For all the wildlife. island existence invariably throws
up some intriguing human
behaviour. too.
FACTFILE
Where to stay Tobermory Holidays. 01688 302301 itobermoryholidays. CO.ukl can Organise both 888 and self-catering accommodation in Tobermory. The Argyll Hotel on Iona offers dinner, bed and breakfast starting from £41 in the low season. Call 01681 70033-1 or log onto argyllhoteliona.co.uk.
How to get there General ll‘ICIUITIeS and timetables for trains. buses and coaches to and on Mull are available by phoning Traveline on 0870 608 2 608 or logging onto travelineorguk. FOr ferry Crossings run by Caledonian MacBrayne ferry. ViSit calmaccook. What to do For more information on trave! to Mull and Iona. log onto Visitscotlandcom or call the local Tourist Information Centre. Craignure. 01680 812 377 Or email lfll0@mull. ViSit scotlandcom. The Mull & Iona Community Trust weDSite iS mictcouk.
TRAVEL MATTERS
ls bird flu affecting the way we go on holiday?
It's not really surprising that the answer to this. broadly speaking. is yes. After all, Brits are a fickle bunch and the merest whiff of danger can turn a holiday hotspot into last year's wannabe. Bangkok. usually a dead cert on the travel trail. was reported as one of the first to suffer. According to cheapflightscouk. January saw a huge decrease in searches for flights to the Thai capital. And while this could possibly be a mere coincidence. CEO David Soskin is confident that the finger of blame should be pointed at avian flu. “The shift in popularity away from Bangkok can almost certainly be attributed to . . . peOple's uncertainty about flying to places afflicted by the H5letrain.' But he goes on to point out that January is also the month when people tend to stay away from long-haul trips. 80 it's possible that a lack of cash as well as confidence could be responsible.
Less ambivalent is the case of Turkey. a British favourite all year round. and where at least four peOpIe have died from the virus. The Guardian recently reported a 50% drop in visitors from Turkey to the UK but the Turkish Tourism Office was quick to call this an exaggerated figure. ‘Turkey was just unlucky in that it was the first place close to the UK that was seriously affected by bird flu.’ said a spokesperson. ‘But all signs show that the market is starting to pick up again now that people realise there is little risk to tourists.’
So what does the trusty FCO have to say on the matter? It backs up the claim that travellers need not worry unduly about contracting avian flu, but gives a few handy hints on what to avoid. Recommendations include staying away from live animal markets. not touching animal faeces and avoiding eating raw poultry or egg dishes — all staples of the happy holiday. surely? While the risk is currently very low, tourists should check fco.gov. uk for updates before they travel.