37*???”
< Simpler in execution is picmgi. a classic dish of central and eastern Europe. Unleavened dough is
stuffed with a wide variety of , ingredients and crimped to look '
like a miniature pasty. The dumplings are then boiled in water until they rise to the top. are removed and brushed with butter. The lilling can be savoury (meat. cheese. sauerkraut. onion, or potato) or fruit. the latter often drizzled with honey cinnamon.
As well as having a coastline on
the Baltic Sea. Poland is blessed
with great freshwater fishing. yielding pike. perch. trout. eel and Z
The far sie
Scandinavian fashion — sometimes 3 fried
carp in the main. Herring from the Baltic is pickled in the and
being battered
and ,
l
beforehand. as in 'sled ': upiekany. 5 a pungent combination of oily. 1
salty fish and sharp. tangy vinegar.
The latter may not be to most
Scottish tastes. despite the method
of cooking. but good quality cold sausage is rare. and is a gift that i
will draw imaginative locals back 1
to Deli Polonia as well as the loyal band of homesick Poles.
Deli Polonia, 237 Leith Walk, Edinburgh, 0131 555 1281.
NK
A new Glasgow venture warms to the task of reinventing the style bar, Barry Shelby finds.
eil Connolly looks slightly weary. The experienced publican who has made Moskito a success since opening it about four years ago is not pleased with some interior elements of this new venture.
Over the Road (just across Bath Street from his first solo venture). The ceiling over the bartenders is too high. he says. Plus. they still
haven‘t figured out a way to 'warm up’
the glass cube tacked onto the front
of the building. the legacy of the style bar Tom Tom. which. until recently. occupied these premises. That said, however. the work already done to the place has largely eliminated the vaguely sterile feel of the previous occupant. Raised and spacious booths opposite the bar are an
Halls?!
.Lisiucntertain!"
Tug"...
Now open 7 nights a week
5pm till 3am
Introducing Kenny Hutchison with his house hand
For Christmas, Hogmanay & Restaurant bookings
, l i l
.‘ L‘i,‘ '1‘,
‘W To find out more log onto wwwihejamhousecom
1i (luce't St't-el - Etlanhutgh - EH? IJE
lilt' men: House
108 THE LIST 1~15 Dec 2005
0345 402 5270 "Wei
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improvement. The liberal use of :
earthy hues throughout the room has created a more welcoming feel.
Connolly agrees that Over the Road is an improvement in these respects — and in the kitchen (where necessary renovations and improvements in plant proved
unexpectedly costly). A chef with
some ambition should make the bar
a hit in a neighbourhood where ’
people increasingly seem to eat out 5
at lunch and after work. Currently the menu straightforward. with snacks as well as some salads and mains. but more elaboration is planned in the New
is'
Year. For now, highlights appear to .
be warm chicken and bacon salad (£5.25), and chocolate fudge cake (£2.25). There is a bit of cheek. too. such as a fish finger sandwich.
Beer-battered fish (£6.45) offers a , spot-on light, flaky tempura-like E shell over pearly white fish. served % with chips — although the menu‘s advertised mushy peas have been
left simmering on a stove somewhere in the basement kitchen.
Also below decks is a cavernous space where leather sofas and
candlelit tables face a big screen for
football matches. Eventually.~
Connolly hopes to open up this space for dining, too, though one suspects that will have to wait until the alterations on the ground floor are finished.
207 Bath Street, Glasgow, 0141 248 2123
i Side Dishes
News to nibble on . . .
I Ever received a complimentary caterpillar in your starter? Or been threatened by a restaurant manager who barked: ‘I don’t give a shit it your evening has been ruined’? Well, readers of our annual Eating & Drinking Guide have been writing to The List throughout the year and those are but two experiences they report. Customers may not always be right but they certainly have points of view and in a fortnight’s time we’ll share more first-hand experiences.
I Glasgow's Cafe Royale [pictured]. in association with Slow Food, will host a special tasting of produce from Scotland's west coast from 3pm on Sunday 4 December. The selection should include scallops and Iangoustines. as well as Tighnabruaich smoked salmon. venison and more. The price is 215. Cafe Royale is at 304 Crow Road. Call 0141 338 6606.
I Shaws Restaurant has opened in the new modern development towards the bottom of the Old Fishmarket Close, off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh. Run by Tony Marini (formerly of est, est, est) and Steven Balsillie (ex-Beluga Bar), the venture combines a selection of international tapas (from Sudanese houmous and blue-fin tuna steak to kangaroo fillets and clam chowder served in a bowl of bread) with a daily changing market menu of bistro-style main courses. Call 0131 226 1300.
I Organisers of the late. lamented Leith Market have announced that they will re- establish in the Grassmarket on weekends in December.
I At the Ubiquitous Chip in Ashton Lane, Glasgow, chefs have been slavering over the latest unique ingredient that the venerable restaurant has sourced in Scotland for its menu: Soay sheep. While technically mutton (that is, more than one year old at slaughter), Soay’s flavour is surprisingly refined and delicate. Call the Chip at 0141 334 5007.