Iranian sights (clockwise from top left): Golestan Palace in Tehran; the ruined city of Persepolis; the roof of Esfahan’s Imam Mosque; and the Amir Chakhmap complex in Yazd
palace. we were suddenly surrounded from all sides by students. eager to bombard us with questions. There was a competitive edge to the process. with the more skilled English speakers edging out the less competent. The more advanced speakers were keen to know about Scotland. Western music and films. and the English grammar. One young man in Esfahan was a Rangers supporter. while a young woman
told us that Brave/tear! was one of
her favourite films. Beginners are content to practise the basics. such as the student who sat with us outside the pyramid-shaped Amir Chakhmaq complex in Yard. and demanded to know our favourite colours and types of food.
3. Iranian women are uniformly meek and oppressed
On several occasions English speaking local women approached
us to ask questions or offer
assistance. Some wear the full chador. a head-to-toe black cloak. while others wear jackets and trousers with a simple head covering. We were told that a mini—
102 THE LIST 1 i‘ Nov- 1 Dec 7005)
intricacies of
revolution has been taking place in recent years. whereby the strict dress codes applied to women are being chipped away. Garments are slowly becoming more fitted. the head covering being pushed gradually further to the back of the head. Several. including our female tour guide to the stunning ancient desert ruined city of Persepolis. offered us their email addresses in the hope we would write to them in English. Anecdotally. Western women. even independent travellers. have a relatively hassle-free experience of travelling around Iran. Inevitably. though. the business of sporting a headscarf in temperatures of around 30 degrees in mild. late summer can be uncomfortable — but is still compulsory. even for foreign women tourists.
4. No music, no dancing,
no fun
Of course. you don‘t travel to the Islamic Republic of Iran for its banging nightlife. The Iranian Revolution swept away the discos. bars and clubs that were popular during the Shah’s reign and. officially. such frivolous pleasures as music and dancing are still frowned upon. Intriguineg. young Iranians are surprisingly open in expressing their impatience with the lack of organised nightlife and activities in their country. These
days. cinema is probably the most widely enjoyed form of mass entertainment. with a prolific home-grown industry to rival Bollywood. While there are few concert halls. music is everywhere. Teahouses and restaurants are the best places to seek out live sounds. It‘s not unusual to listen to a man plucking at the traditional stringed instrument tar as you sup a beverage. while every evening in Esfahan. dozens of men gather beneath the floodlit Si-O-Seh bridge to sing en-masse. producing the most beautiful. haunting sound. On our last night in Shiraz (dubbed the ‘cultural capital of Persia) we visited a restaurant fashioned from an old hammam bathhouse. which featured a live band who whipped the locals into a frenzy of excitement and impromptu dancing. Entertaimnent. music and culture are everywhere in Iran. just waiting to be soaked up and savoured.
While Allan Radcliffe had a wholly positive holiday experience in Iran, readers should be aware that the foreign & Commonwealth ()ffiee does advise strongly against travel in certain parts of the (‘oantrv Visit lt‘lt‘lt'.‘/‘(‘().g()l‘.Ilk for up to date information.
www.itto.org
Howmuchtospend
newyearin...
Berlin
If you ’re stuck for Hogmanay plans, here are a few ideas. But be quick: the best bargains won ’t hang around for long.
I Cottage in Scotland There are still a few houses available on www.scottish-country- cottagescouk. Imagine yourself curled up in front of the wood burning stove with five pals and maybe a couple of bottles of wine . . . bliss. Seven nights‘ accommodation: £576 + people carrier hire through www.enterprise.co.uk: 92320. Total: £150pp
I Clubbing in London If dancing until dawn and beyond is more your thing, make sure you snap up tickets to the new year's bash at Fabric London (www.tabriclondoncom). Entry price: £35 + two nights' accommodation at Jury's Inn Islington (www.jurys.com): 2223. Total: £147pp
I Five nights in Berlin It's well known as one of the hippest cities in Europe. and it celebrates the new year in style. Double room at Hotel Gates (www.hotel- gatescom): £346 + return flight from Newcastle to Berlin with www.easyjet.com: 2164.
Total: £337pp
I Skiiing in Chamonix valley What better way to get rid of a hangover than by carving up the slopes in Vallorcine? Then by night create your very own apres- ski scene in a lodge from www.chaletfindercouk. One week in a six-person chalet: 21500 + flight from Glasgow to Geneva with www.flyglobe spancom: 92164.
Total: 2414
I Beach holiday in Brazil If you'd rather get away from it all and simply laze around on the sands. check out www.thomson.co.uk. One week package. including flights from Gatwick. accommodation and transfers: $21698 + travel to London with wwweasyjetcom: $358. Total: £907pp
All prices subject to availability and exchange rates.