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The Manna House bakery is a sincerely welcomed addition in Edinburgh, writes Barry Shelby.
THE MANNA HOUSE BAKERY 2-24 Easter Road. Edin'?}':91‘.1_91§1§52.,2349,.. _+
Manna: the miraculous food which sustained the Israelites in the wilderness (Exodus
16: 14-36). ‘This word is the true manna; it is the bread which came down from
heaven; it is the savour of life unto life.’ (John Jewel, 16th century clergyman)
he doors have only been open for a few weeks. but the
trio who launched the Manna House bakery and
patisserie may now wish they‘d installed a revolving version. given the pace at which people can pour into this shop. The top of Easter Road in Edinburgh may not be perceived as a retail hot spot: it’s certainly no George Street. yet footfall probably exceeds most people‘s expectations.
And with more new housing going up all the time. it is likely only to increase. Good news for the Manna House. which brings a classy but friendly baker to this gentrifying neighbourhtmd.
Meet Drew Massey. master baker. (‘laire (‘oussmakerz patisserie chef. and Martin Wilson. business manager (and nascent cheese buyer). If you have been to Manna. you will probably have met or at least seen them. All work in and
around the counter. which ‘IT'S
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exceeded expectations and clearly the response has taken them a bit by surprise. At times its mind blowing how happy people are. says Wilson. ‘lt makes your day. The smiles on their faces say it all.‘ Massey adds: “What’s heartening is that people appreciate what we‘re doing here.‘
Indeed. that's surer what is hard to predict. Massey has been baking all his life (a third generation baker) and C oussrnaker used to work at the Sheraton. However confident they are in their talent. they never had much contact with customers. But now they‘re front and centre. The early signs are good. for certain.
So why didn’t they do it years ago'.’ It takes 'balls and guts‘. Coussmaker says. Massey admits he couldn’t have done it on his own. It is the sum of the parts that made the business happen. They each bring a speciality and in ten months the trio went from concept to kick off. Only after opening did they hear that this was a remarkably short time scale.
It's not been easy but the dynamics of the group have made the difference. ()ften one is able to lift the other two‘s flagging spirits. ‘Luckily. we all have a sense of humour. too.‘ Coussmaker says.
Professional satisfaction — the freedom and creativity of having their own business — has been one reward for Massey and Coussmaker: the opportunity to prepare things that they want. There always will be core products. whether butter croissants or white loaves. btit there is room to experiment. ‘I don‘t like making the same thing every day.‘ says Massey.
As they bake in small batches all afternoon. there is room to try out new recipes without suffering excess wastage. lixpect to find the counters and shelves heaving with anything from Mississippi mud pies to poppy seed baps. milk chocolate and
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