News to nibble on . . .
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I The owners of Gamba, one of Glasgow’s leading restaurants, have opened their first Southside venture. Urban Grill [pictured] is the new bar and brasserie from restaurateur Alan Tomkins and chef Derek Marshall. The bright and modern operation near Shawlands Cross features dishes such as fish cake with chilli spiced salsa, roasted chicken wings with Thai jelly and roast cod with a smoked haddock, prawn and pea curry. Urban Grill is at 61 Kilmarnock Road, 0141 649 2745. I The third annual James Sankey Award for Excellence in Service is seeking young talent either at catering schools or already working in restaurants. Until 9 December. nominations for the award are being accepted by Oloroso restaurant, which was founded by Sankey (who died in 2002) and chef Tony Singh. The competition is open to those between 18 and 28 years old. Nomination forms can be downloaded from www.0loroso.co.uk. I Fans of Monster Mash are discovering the joys of rib- sticking, Tex-Mex-style comfort food at the company’s newest outlet, Monster Mex on Thistle Street, Edinburgh. The menu focuses on dishes such as huevos rancheros (fried eggs on tortillas with salsa and cheese), chilli dogs with fries, or carnitas con guacamole (braised pork with lime and avocado). Desserts include key lime pie and Mississippi mud pie. Monster Mex is at 64 Thistle Street, 0131 225 7906. I Two Fat Ladies has opened its long—awaited second outlet near Blythswood Square in Glasgow. The evening a la carte menu is the same as the West End flagship: pan-fried sea bass. steamed Loch Etive mussels, monkfish wrapped in streaky bacon or stuffed chicken breast. The lunch and pre-theatre menu is set-price at $310.95 for two courses. Two Fat Ladies is at 118a Blythswood Street. 0141 847 0088.
EAT&DR|NK
Out
f one wanted to gamble on the
next big thing in food. one
tnight get decent odds on a flutter in favour of Afro-Caribbean cuisine. We've been Thai—ed tip. Indian-ed out. noodled over and sushied away. It‘s time for something new.
Aside from the hints of sub- Saharan Africa at Ndebele in lidinburgh. there is a clear gap in the market. The demise of :‘Vlillars a few years back from the (ilasgow scene might indicate that demand simply isn't there for plantains. yams. spicy beancakes and the like.
Still. surely our culinary curiosin means borders need expanding. African communities are growing
in the central belt and the clutch of
African food shops appear to turn a decent business.
Testing the waters is (io/ie Joe Adigwe. a Glasgow-born entrepreneur with Nigerian blood who has a catering company called Afra. A former sales rep whose parents fled Africa during the Biafran war in the late l‘)(10s. she has mixed her teenage experience in the restaurant trade with the culture and cooking of her upbringing in the African expatriate community. launching Afra in August 2003.
From a kitchen she hires in the cily"s West lind. Adigwe concocts her ‘Afro-(‘aledonian‘ dishes as well as more liuropean and Mediterranean standards for clients that range from local NHS trust lunches to wedding parties in Scotland from Scandinavia.
Barry Shelby discovers that ‘Afro-Caledonian’ cuisine is not as strange an idea as it may sound.
African staples include starchy components such as yams and sweet potatoes. which can be boiled. stewed or fried: seasonings range from hot chillies. such as Scotch bonnet varieties. to palm oil (use in moderation. Adigwe warns) and dry shrimp flakes.
Nigerian dishes tend to be meaty. but Adigwe says that meat isn‘t necessary. She also looks for dishes that may have components and flavours which with people are familiar. So her chicken and groundnut stew (recipe right) is reminiscent of a Thai-style satay.
Some concoctions are certainly an acquired taste. ()kra can be stewed into a sticky roux that has a consistency probably too gooey for most. ()thers. however. will fit just fine. Take deep-fried sweet yellow plantains. for example. which is a variation on the beloved chip. ()ther ingredients would find a place. eventually. such as the aubergine- like ‘garden egg’ which resembles the Mexican tomatillo.
So what about opening a dedicated African cafe or restaurant'.’ Adigwe’s commitment to spending time with her young child makes the proposition unlikely. But something may be afoot. Metropolitan bar and restaurant in (ilasgow‘s Merchant (‘in offered a special African meal at the end of ()ctober. Might just be the beginnings of more to come.
Afra, 7 Ashley Street, Glasgow, 07782 297495, www.afracatering.com
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CHICKEN AND GROUNDNUT STEW
4— diced fillets/thighs/legs
Marinade:
2tbs lemon juice
1tsp salt
4 sprigs fresh thyme
Sauce:
2tbs vegetable oil
1 large onion. diced
1 400g tin chopped tomatoes
1tsp salt
1/2tsp Nigerian chilli
4tbs peanut butter — crunchy/smooth 1tsp dried. crushed crayfish (optional) 1509 button mushrooms (optional)
1pt chicken stock
Directions:
Marinade the chicken pieces for at least one hour. Heat the oil and add the chicken to brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the onions to the pot and fry till soft. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook till liquid is reduced. Reduce heat and spoon in the peanut butter. Mix in well and season with chilli pepper and salt it reatiired. Re-introduce the chicken and add chicken stock and cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Serve with rice. nan bread or couscous.
PHULOURIE BALLS - BAJAN BEANCAKES
2 cups ground split peas or chick peas 2 tsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp saffron powder
4 tsp baking powder
2 Cups flour
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp hot pepper (minced)
1 cup water (or more)
2 Cups oil for frying
Directions:
In a large mixing bowl combine ground split peas. garlic. saffron powder, baking powder. flour. salt and hot pepper. Make a well in the centre and add one Cup of water. Beat mixture vigorously until batter is of a dropping consistency. It may be necessary to add more water. Drop by teaspoon into hot oil and deep fry until golden brown and well cooked. Turn frequently to ensure even cooking. Drain on absorbent paper and serve with a chutney or dip.
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