SLOW START 0N SKYE Where better than the Hebrides to host the first ever congress of Slow Food UK, asks Donald Reid? Tranquil islands aren't the obvious place for revolutions to begin. Although Carlo Petrini isn't the first man to cross the sea to Skye with an eye to upsetting the British establishment. the founder of the international Slow Food Movement doesn't have the political system of the UK in his sights. Rather. it's the entrenched food culture here that he wants to overhaul.
Petrini set up Slow Food in Italy as a reaction to the invasion and subjugation of the world's tastebuds by the industrialisation of food. The idea has taken root in 100 COuntries and Slow Food has 80.000 members. Now. it's Britain's turn. We're starting to get Our heads and stomachs around the fairly simple equation which reads that bad food is bad for us and good food is good for us. Good for not just Our health but our well being. too. Petrini has been kind enough to remind us that eating can be a pleasure.
Speaking in Skye at the recent inaugural Slow Food UK congress he said: 'The one thing which would make me believe in God is the fact that his masterplan to ensure the pleasurable continuation of the species is based on two things: food and sex. Without these two basics there is no future for the human race.‘
The Slow Food delegates on Skye certainly ate well. thanks to an impressive range of truly ‘slow foods' that can be sourced both on the island itself and around Scotland. They left the island not only well fed but also ready to get involved in their local areas with all sorts of slow projects: spreading taste education. reviving regional traditions of eating, introducing real food to children, encomaging farmers' markets and local independent producers. protecting threatened varieties of food both in Britain and around the world. and getting involved with political decisions about food policy.
Slow Food has the potential to make a significant impact on British attitudes to food and farming, and. as Carlo says: ‘Gastronomy can change the world'.
I For more about Slow Food go to wwws/owfoodcom. To find out about the Edinburgh Slow Food group contact dona/dre/d@blueyonder. co. uk.
100 THE LIST 8-22 Set) 2005
Lit Market crisis
Dispute over a car park may scupper the popular market in Edinburgh’s docklands, as Robin Lee reports.
he recently established Leith Market looks like it will need to find a new home soon. The use of a car park adjacent to the Commercial
Quay site appears to be the problem. The market had an estimated .
5000 visitors on its launch last spring and. ever since. has had up to 26 stalls selling food. drink and artisan goods.
But while it is primarily pitched on land owned by Forth Ports Plc. it also depends on some parking spaces owned by Joint Properties. which also leases the adjacent business units on the quay. such as the Quay Sports Bar. The sticking point appears to be the fact that the car park is alleged to be principally for employees of these enterprises and Joint Properties decided to renegotiate its contract with the business units because of Leith Market’s arrival. Agreement still has not been reached.
Two Edinburgh city councillors are not pleased with the handling of the situation. Gordon Munro. councillor for the ward that includes Commercial Quay. claims that hurdles have been deliberately placed in the way of the market. Councillor Tom Ponton. who also owns the Quay Sports Bar. is more direct about his landlord: representatives from Joint Properties are ‘very difficult people‘. he says.
A spokesman for Joint Properties refuses to be drawn on Ponton‘s comments. ‘We can‘t allow [Leith Market] to use our car park without the legal documents being put in place. We can‘t be held liable for other people's actions when we‘re not insured for it. We were unable to conclude a legal contract.’
He suggested that the supporters of Leith Market were trying to engage in a slanging match. Last month The Evening News reported that Joint Properties‘ security prevented stall holders from using the car park for access to the stalls. adding that the local traders were opposed to the weekly market. ‘They‘re obviously trying to spread some muck about us in the press. We don't operate in that way — we’re an old. established and trusted company in Edinburgh. I‘m not really going to get dragged into any mud- slinging.‘
Sophie Lidgate. managing director of the market. acknowledges that they knew the car park might be an issue from the beginning. ‘Last June. we sent out to all the tenants of the car park and of the offices our proposal. which had maps and layouts. and our vision and business plan. That was all agreed to. and then they were meant to sign amendments. and the amendments didn‘t go out until the day before we launched on l8 March.’
Still. Lidgate is optimistic about the future of the market. ’We‘ve got some good offers coming in and some good potential placements. but nothing‘s confirmed. I think what I've managed to do is prove that a market can run every weekend. and be a regular feature.’
www.leithmarket.com
Side Dishes
News to nibble on . . .
I One of Side Dishes’ all-time favourite characters in local catering - David Ramsden (pictured) - was recentty appointed operations director for Monster Mash. The sardonic, gravel-voiced former owner of Rogue and before that the Michelin- Iauded (fitz)Henry will be involved in the retro-café’s expansion beyond the Edinburgh flagship on Forrest Road and second branch on Byres Road in Glasgow’s West End. Alas, it appears to be a desk job, so we probably won’t be seeing Mr Ramsden meeting and greeting at new outlet planned for Thistle Street, New Town. Which is quite a shame when you think about it.
I Boudoir is the new name of the French/Mediterranean restaurant from chef/restaurateur Dean Gassabi of Maison Bleue. The recently opened venture replaces Oxygen Bar on Infirmary Street. Dishes include tournedos of duck and cote de bouef. Call them on 0131 557 9997 for further details.
I And across town, in the premises that were Martin’s restaurant, Roti has been opened by chef Tony Singh of Oloroso restaurant. The cuisine is upmarket Indian, with the menu offering seared halibut with coconut and vegetable stew or char-grilled chicken with crushed black peppercorns among other specialities. Roti is based at 70 Rose Street North Lane, 0131 225 1233.
l Glasgow's Cottiers restaurant has a new menu. Fajita remains the signature dish but the a la carte selection also includes seafood cakes with mango mint salsa (£5.25). venison with a pepita and chilli crust and pomegranate glaze (£13.50). and pan-fried seabass with a prawn and black bean salsa (£13.95). The restaurant also runs a daily table d'hote menu from 5—7pm. offering two courses for £9.95 or three for £1 1.95. Cottiers is based at 93-95 Hyndland Street. 0141 357 5825.