New restaurant v PAPERINO’S WEST END
227 Byres Road, Glasgow, 0141 334 381 1
Side Dishes
In Italian, the name means Donald
Duck (who, coincidently, made his debut 71 years ago last month), but i this is no Mickey Mouse operation. A second branch to follow the popular Sauchiehall Street trattoria, : Paperino’s West End is run by the Giovanazzi family, whose crowning achievement in Glasgow is La Parmigiana restaurant.
There may not be any outdoor seating here, but the tall windows along the busy Byres Road pavement can be folded open on nice days, providing an alfresco café ambience, and the slightly ' amusing spectacle of punters just i wandering in and missing the formal front door entirely.
The decor is bright - and particularly colourful in spots thanks to the homage to early 20th century abstract modern art executed by Glasgow artist Nichol Wheatley, who first met owner Stefano Giovanazzi when he frequented the first Paperino’s as a
student at the Art School.
In addition to the seating near the pavement, the premises wrap around the neighbouring Oxfam shop to present diners in the rear room (which has many booths) with
first floor views of Buthven Lane.
' There is lots of room in this vaguely Tardis-like space, which also has mezzanine tables.
The menu is familiar, with lots of pasta and pizza, and a few meat and fish main courses such as a stuffed chicken involtini or fried calamari. Expect dishes such as a penne valtarese to be perfectly solid, if not necessarily spectacular: al dente tubes in a creamy tomato sauce with some hints of pesto. Pizzas have thin, crispy bases not overloaded with sauce or cheese; the salsiccia version has generous slices of sausage, given some extra kick by finely diced bits of green pepper. Children are particularly welcome but, given the location, the
I Beware of crime novelists bearing cocktail shakers. Ian Rankin is a reasonably well- kent wine aficionado, but Dewar’s whisky appears to have cornered the esteemed writer at the recent Francis Bacon exhibition launch and Rankin was only too happy to shill with the company’s ‘global ambassador’ Malcolm Murray in a photo op (pictured). Apparently the distinguished guests at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art opening gala that night were imbibing an ‘iconic’ mixed drink called Morning Dew, created by the Villager’s bar manager, Craig Patterson. Heaven knows what Bacon would make of this.
Just so no one thinks Side Dishes is above it, however, here is the recipe:
11/2 shots Dewar’s White Label 1/2 shot of Creme de Cacao 1/2 shot of Cointreau
1 shot of lemon juice
1/2 shot of sugar
1 shot of pineapple juice
MK, II
Bus fare
Healthy eating for kids is such a hot topic at the moment that soon we might report the sighting of a teenager eating broccoli. Donald Reid finds out about the latest idea to rumble into town.
s an outlet for small-scale local food producers. lidinburgh's
farmers‘ market doesn‘t normally do lorries. This one. however.
is an exception. {Vlanoeuvring into a parking slot on (‘astle Terrace recently was a brightly painted vehicle called the (‘ooking Bus. One side opened tip to reveal a fully equipped kitchen classroom. If you can't get kids into the kitchen. bring the kitchen to them.
The motivation behind the (‘ooking Bus is much the same as Jamie ()liver‘s recent school dinners campaign. that what children typically eat and what children typically know about food is adversely al‘l‘ecting the health of the nation. The (‘ooking Bus is able to bring its kitchen and the teachers who ride with it to a different school every week. ()liver’s campaign has been targeted at what we feed kids in dinner halls. while the Cooking Bus is about inspiring them to feed themselves properly.
During its stop in lidinburgh. the children invited to attend a cooking session on board started off by shopping for ingredients at the l‘armers’ market. Being able to. and indeed enjoying. all the aspects of the cooking experience. from shopping to eating. will encourage children to take more interest in their food. Lots ol‘ studies have shown that nearly all children are more willing to try new foods when they‘ve prepared and cooked it themselves. Along with all the kitchen kit on board the bus. there are chairs and cutlery and china. When the cooking is done. everyone sits around a table to enjoy eating what they‘ve rustled up.
The Cooking Buses -- there are two in operation at the moment are part of a nationwide education campaign called Focus on Food. The campaign's director. Anita (‘ormac. is forthright about its guiding clientele is that typically West End principles. ‘It is unacceptable not to have ethical and well-managed trinity of youth, fashion and whole-school food policies in all UK primary and secondary schools. reasonable affluence. (Barry Shelby) , For a future healthy community it is vital that young people are taught
1 from an early age about food. where it comes from and the importance and excitement of preparing a meal for themselves and others.‘
I In more serious news. the Snug is a new bistro in St Stephen Street. Edinburgh. As the name suggests. space is at a premium in the Stockbridge venture ~— only 24 diners at a time. please. The food tends to lavoii seasonal produce. grown and raised in Scotland. Some veg even comes from the owner's small holding. Good one. The Snug. 33a St Stephen Street. 01131 225 9397.
I In Glasgow, the revamp and relaunch of the Lansdowne in the West End is complete.
96 THE LIST 7—21 Jul 2005
Focus on Food has many high prolile supporters such as l’i'iie l.eith. Gary Rhodes and Antony Worrall Thompson. and has gathered significant funding in England and Wales. The idea that Scotland should
have its own (‘ooking Buses is being championed by Mary (‘ontini ol’
Valvona & (‘rolla. who has written books about getting kids cooking. ‘Unless young children are empowered to choose and prepare their own food they will not be able to make good choices] she points out. ‘We wouldn’t need the (‘ooking Bus project if cooking is put back on the curriculum and schools are equipped with their own teaching kitchens and fully trained staff. The fund raising team is at work and we are confident that the £l.3 million needed will be raised. We are hoping that government will match funds raised to take equal responsibility for the project so that everyone is on board together.‘
www.food.gov.uklhealthier eating/bus]
Now in the hands of the Maclay Inns group, the venture’s refurb includes egg- shaped bar stools and a ‘pebee-dash’ fire place. New menus have dishes such as a porcini mushroom and spinach risotto, beer-battered cod, a cured meat platter with pickled vegetables, 3 Mellis cheese platter or lemon tart with berries. The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen, 7a Lansdowne Crescent, 0141 334 4653.