A spa is orn
Slovenia is a relative newcomer on the eastern European travel trail, but its mix of beautiful cities and relaxing spas makes it a winner, discovers Claire Smith.
he health spa: no longer the
property of comfortably
middle-class women hoping to shed their comfortable middles. but a fashionable and popular pursuit of bright. stressed young things. As long as they have a big wallet. Right'.’ Wrong.
A weekend at a British country spa may set you back £250 (before you’ve booked a massage). but head to Slovenia. 21 country still elbowing its way on the [European map. and you can bag yourself four days of unwinding for the same price. including flights. accommodation and treatments.
This relatively new country — formerly the northernmost province of Yugoslavia — has l5 health spas. Not bad going for a country the size of Wales. And it’s not just the locals who enjoy the healing powers of the waters. Their Italian and Austrian neighbours have been curing their ills here for centuries. with Napoleon being one of their more well known clients.
I opted for Strunjan. a health spa on Slovenia‘s ‘Riviera'. a 42km stretch that looks out onto the Adriatic Sea. From early April to
late September a ha/y heat lolls around the soft green hills. veiling the dense forests of (‘ypress tress and faded Mediterranean-style villas that line the coastline. Sand is scarce. the shoreline is peppered with the kind of rocks that make Brighton seem like the (‘aribbean — but this doesn‘t seem to deter the Austrians who arrive in their droves. and soon strip down to nothing more than a hat and a pair
THIS IS HEALING, EAST EUROPEAN STYLE - BRUSQUE, N0- NONSENSE AND AFFORDABLE
of sunglasses. The tale of the naked grandtlad in a white flowerpot hat. bent over as his saggy wife squeezed tanning oil onto his buttocks. kept me dining out for months. If you too are a sun worshipper. be sure to bring a soft mat to lie on. ()r you will be needing a massage.
The spa itself is a textbook
TRAVEL a
example of faded 70s glory. Set in a nature reserve. just a two minute walk from the sea and from some ancient salt mines which are renowned for their respiratory healing powers. the main hotel. the four-star Svoboda (£40 a night) boasts black marble floors. long dimly lit corridors and giant beds. The sellkatenng accommtxiation. brightly coloured faux Italian villas (£30 a night) dappled about the grounds. is a cheaper and more cheerful option.
But where the buildings don‘t do much to impress. the treatments certainly do. Forget the Ayurvedic pampering rituals that have become popular in modern British spas. this is healing Eastern Iiuropean style: brusque. no- nonsense. effective and affordable £18 for a 45-minute full-body massage: £l5 for a sea salt scrub. £30 for a 90-minute facial and £22 for an algae wrap. The therapists are mostly young and keen to practice their English. With Slovenia a recent member of the IiU. the country's eyes are firmly focused west.
It‘s worth noting that in early April and late September when the
temperatures are cooler and prices cheaper. the resort is popular with
a more elderly clientele — something I realised at 7am as I jogged down to the indoor pool for a spot of water aerobics. After half an hour of a workout designed to improve your hip replacement. I declined an invitation to the communal naked sauna and sprinted off feeling ten years younger.
But that‘s not to say a week of detox can‘t be combined with a healthy dose of retox. The seaside towns of Piran and Izola are all within walking distance and a cheap taxi ride home at the end of the night. And with the coast just
7-21 Jul 2005 THE LIST 99