Burkina‘s population of almost l4 million people is made up of more than ()0 indigenous ethnic groups with as many languages and dialects. but the Mossi make up more than half the population. Ouagadougou developed in the lSth century as a Mossi kingdom. one of the many west African empires that ruled in this area in pre-colonial times. l’rench military incursions began in I896 and the country. known as L'pper Volta. eventually gained independence in 1960. It was renamed Burkina l’aso. or ‘land of the incorruptible‘. in I‘M-l3 by then prime minister Thomas Sankara. a former revolutionary. Despite this hopeful baptism. contemporary Burkina is struggling to wipe out official corruption and develop a sound economy and adequate public services. It is not hard to see that the country is still caught in the conflict between traditional
lifestyles and the influences of
modernity and urbanisation.
The semi-desert environment. suffering from severe deforestation. is almost devoid of natural resources and most people eke out a living from the land. growing cotton. millet and peanuts. But what Burkina lacks in natural beauty it amply makes tip for in cultural wealth. l’aradoxically. the country has established one of the most prominent lilrn industries in Africa. and ()uagadougou hosts the world‘s biggest festival of African film every two years
The first l"liSl’/\('() (liestival Panafricain du ('inema et de la Television de ()uagadougou) took
104 THE LIST 23 Jun—J Jul 200i)
TRAVEL
place in ION) and it has grown so much over the years that more than half a million visitors now flock to ()uaga to take part in the transformation of the city into a vibrant cinematic playground. The week-long February festival brings together directors. actors. critics. students and cinephiles from all over the world. It includes multiple screenings of over l()() African films in the city's many cinemas
some outdoors and a few mercifully air-conditioned as well as a lilm and television market. workshops. press conferences and art performances. The local population enthusiastically takes part in the events. strpporting the directors and actors heralded as national heroes in Burkina. But watching a film in Africa is far removed from the isolated voyeurism of \Nestern cinematic codes of conduct. It is common to engage in conversation with the characters or other audience members. to inform the
protagonist of the best course of
action to take. or to comment on the events unfolding on screen.
Apart from watching films. our friendship with a Rastafarians. all skilled musicians. introduces tts to the dynamic musical heritage of west Africa. We are taken to small reggae clubs and performances of traditional west African drumming and dancing. lincouraged to test our own musical skills. we are treated to lessons on traditional instruments the djembe drum; the balafon. a wooden xyloplione: the kora. a stringed instrument resembling a lute; and the ngoni. a stringed tonal
group of
Travelling through Burkina Faso can be a challenge (above loft) but Ouagadougou's cultural life is vibrant, so why go elsewhere?
percussion instrument. West African dancing is improvisational. free and earthy. building tip to fren/ied climaxes as dancers take their turn to strut their sttiff among the musicians on stage.
One evening we are taken to a river in search of sacred fish. said to stay eternally undone when you try to cook them. l)espite our interest in seeing magical fish. the smell makes us reluctant to get close to the water. We are also disturbed by the possible health risks from women washing grains and vegetables in water from a well just next to the river. When we point this out to our friend. his impatient answer epitomises our experience of the conundrum that is contemporary Burkina l’aso: ‘This is Africa.‘
For more information on the film festival, visit www.fespaco.bf
FACT FILE
Getting there Air franco (wwwarrlrari(:o.(:orn) flies to Ouagadougou from Paris CDC airport. Prices for a return flight during July come in at around 5‘5358. Air Hurkina iwwwair liirrkiria.<:orn) also operates a servufo from Paris Orly Sud. Accommodation l or details of various hotels; and hostels. visit www.crrlturegovl)l. /\ relatively (‘()llll(‘ll£li)l(? hotel like l lolol Ricardo. which has a swimming pool. l)le and nightclub, starts at around 5‘30 per night.
How much to upgrade? i
Find out how the other half travels, what it costs and, most crucially, whether it’s worth it.
I BUSINESS CLASS
TO NEW YORK
Make the trip to the Big Apple in comfort with Continental's international business section to New York. Newark. Enjoy VIP treatment through customs, relax in a spacious reclining seat. choose what films you want to watch and enjoy culinary delights. Book with www.continentalcorn. 22215.20 from Glasgow
I PREMIUM ECONOMY
TO DELHI
If you can't quite face sardine class but don't want to pay out for full business class. Virgin Atlantic's premium economy offers more leg room, wider seats, dedicated check-in and. mere importantly, a glass of champagne before take- off. See www.virgin-atlantic.com for details.
521602.90 from London Heathrow
I FIRST CLASS TO LONDON Gliding into the capital in style doesn't have to be too expensive it you book in advance. The off—peak first class tickets exclude the use of the executive lounge at the station. but you still get the same generous seating once on board. Tickets from www.gner.co.uk.
£59 from Edinburgh
I BUSINESS CLASS
'I’O PARIS
Make your trip to the romantic city that little bit more, well. special with an upgrade to business class. Breeze through check-in with a dedicated area, relax in the lounge while you wait for your flight, then be the first off the plane and out into the heart of the SOphisticated French capital. Book via www.airfrance.com.
£476.20 from Edinburgh
I PREMIUM CABIN
TO LERWICK
Lie back and enjoy watching your favourite DVDs or TV programmes
as you nibble on chocolates in one
of Northlink Fenies‘ premium cabins. The twin berth rooms have an incredible sea view. See WWW.llOTllllllikafflGS.CO.Uk.
£265.60 from Aberdeen
All prices quoted are for return
trips in July, including all taxes.
(Rachael Street)