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I. ‘ i ‘I ' -~ 1 \ sooner are we off the mountain and into the hills than the rain starts. lt hardly stops in the next 24 hours. (ioatfell is a relatively tough walk - there are numerous easier routes in the island. taking in caves and standing stones. liew. though. end outside a brewery. The Arran Brewery produces ales and dark and light beers — you can btry them across Scotland. as well as in most of the island's pubs. We get a couple for the walk back to the hotel: the Dark has a hitter. almost chocolatey flavour. while the Sunset is refreshing and fruity. (‘reelers. not far from the brewery. is the venue for dinner. It has some deliciously fresh Scottish produce: the oysters are sharp and succulent but I don't know if the howl is for linger dipping or oyster llavouring. The night linishes in the ()rmidale pub. which sits hallway up a wooded road on the way to Brodick. Before long. the evening is an engaging blur of conversations with retired firemen and nostalgic old ladies. fuelled by numerous trips to the bar for more of the local beer. I start by alternating the different varieties and end up not being able to tell which is which. Next door is a conservatory where the DJ and landlord (who wears a
tie and is almost certainly of
pensionable age) is playing the
114 THE LIST 25 AL"—‘_‘ Ma.
TRAVEL
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Killers and Stevie Wonder while a boy in a shell suit requests Oasis.
The rain hasn‘t abated by Sunday. btrt since our proposed activity is gorge walking that doesn‘t seem too important. Arran Adventure has been running activities since 2003. and has just moved from a large but to a purpose-built waterfront office and climbing centre. Instructors (‘alum McNeil and Stuart Wallace. who both have the weather-beaten faces and broad grins of people who spend most of their time outdoors and are rather smug about the fact. drive us from Brodick to the south side of the island. ln ‘Scotland in miniature~ cliche. this is the island’s flatter half. the lowlands to the north‘s highland landscape. lt's hilly enough. though. and home to the spectacular (ilenashdale Falls. which we will shortly be standing under. soaking wet on slippery rocks.
It‘s not too cold in a wetsuit. but this trek up and down river is still a wonderfully shocking experience. We keep our knees bent and our eyes on the treacherous rocks and water. sliding down grooves in the layered sandstone and granite. and jumping from small cliffs into rock pools below. It‘s great fun. equal parts cold shower. geography lesson and Indiana Jones setpiece. and our confidence soon grows. At first.
every step is a leap of faith. After an hour in the water. we‘re experts.
Likewise. after a few days on Arran and a quick pre—ferr'y pitstop in Mac's Bar. where the football is showing and the local beer is on tap 7- we feel we know the isle pretty well too. It’s a fallacy. of course. Our car-free trip has been restricted to less than half of Arran: we have not even touched the west coast. the stacks and lochs of the north or the cave where Robert the Bruce had his famous conference with a spider. We‘ve done enough. though. to make the ferry trip back a rather sad one.
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Fancy a week’s holiday in May? Here's how much it's likely to cost.
BRISTOL
Head for the west country for hippy Vibes and great suit on the north Devon coast. Leave from Edinburgh Airport on 1;) May and return on 19 May. With a direct Easy/Jet flight. Book through wwweasyietcom.
£46.98
PRAGUE
Hapsburg, Kafka and memories of communism washed down With some great beer in the heart of eastern Europe. Leave from Edinburgh Airport on 19 May and return on 26 May. With a direct Globespan flight. Book through vwrwtlyglobespan.com.
£79.57
BARRA
Standing stones. Neolithic remains and a castle surrounded by the sea. Spend a week on one of Scotland‘s most entiCing Hebridean islands. Depart from Glasgow Airpon on 12 May and return on 19 May. With a direct Loganair flight. Book through www.ba.com.
£80.60
COPENHAGEN (pictured)
A city that, in typically Scandinavian style. blends high culture with Wild nights. while the water is never very far away. Depart from Glasgow Airport on 13 May and return on 20 May. flying via Amsterdam wrth KLM. Total time is a slightly annoying 3 hours. 5 minutes. but the saying on the direct flight should make it worth the extra schlep. Book Via wwwexpediacom or www.klm.com. £176.00
TORONTO
Canada's trendiest and most urbane city. Perfect for an urban American break, without haying to deal with too many rednecks. Depart from Glasgow Airport on 16 May and return on 24 May. with a direct Zoom Airlines flight. Book via www.f|yzoom.com. £264.43
A/I prices are for return fares for one adult, inc/uding a// taxes. Bear in mind that al/ prices. though correct at time of going to press, are /iable to increase maddening/y for the precise dates you want to choose. (Nick Barley)