Life Style
Turkish
HANEDAN
41 West Preston Street, Edinburgh, 0131 667 4242
West Preston Street, a pleasantly anonymous road between studenty Newrngton and suburban Mayfield. doesn't look like a hotbed of culinary enterprise. Yet number 41 has a distinguished recent histOry: first home to Namaste. Perdip Singh's adventurous North Indian and. Since
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SideDishes
News to nibble on . . .
I Edinburgh's French restaurant scene is robust and two different ventures have doubled their presence here. Cafe Marlayne, the Thistle Street operation, has opened another café on the Royal Mile, while Petit Paris has complemented its Grassmarket restaurant with a new West End branch. Marlayne recently reoccupied the former premises of Le Sept, and features frequently changing menus that highlight fresh market produce. Café Marlayne, 7 Old Fishmarket
NamaSoSmOVGuSWGaR meme 0,8 The occa3iona| restaurant Bigfish has resurfacedoin g2”, 192559382123251371 relaxed Turkish restaurant that has been Leith, and Barry Shelby sees good reason for casting Quwmnsfeny Street, 0131 226
attracting some unUSUa'W 'aV'Sh “3'39 a line in its direction 139°
At first, it is a little hard to see why: the V decor is simple and unexceptional. the any would say that you have to be brave to launch any restaurant In Glasgow recent Openings meflU 3“ UmUSSY seleCllOn Of traditional these days. But you have to be particularly confident to open an '“C'Ude Dayraa 6"” House '”
.Occagmnal rcumurunp Albert Drive. Pollokshields. and
Turkish dishes, with a few AI n Pu St I n r Mediterranean options on the Side. But Bigfish isjust that: a dining out venue that is open onlv on select ayaQ ' fee. 83 ‘ ' Sauchiehall Street in the City
What there IS. ll'lCIDUQl'lulS extremely well weekends in Bonnington Ro id 1 cith The br tinchild of c itcic J inics centre. The former SpeClahses m executed. The lUle, filling and well Robb. Bigfish actually first swam these tricky waters years ago at the
lndo/Pakistani tandoori and grilled meals. as well as a range of ‘Desi' specialities and more traditionally Glaswegian curries. Alaya is Mediterranean in
priced (all cost £3.80 or less) starters Fruitmarket Gallery. The currents are no less predictable in 2005 but Robb include yaprak dolma (stuffed vine is convinced that Bigfish can negotiate the tides.
leaves). sucuk izgara (grilled garlic Robb’s facilities in Leith are rather uniquely suited to the new venture. sausage), firin kofte (baked meat balls) Called the Commissary. the premises have a full kitchen — as you would
and deliciously sharp hummus. expect from a caterer experienced at outside events —~ but they also include a orientation, offering dishes with If you're stuck for choice. go for the dining space that can accommodate about 45 people. It is a bit of a blank Middle Eastern and European lalezar, or mixed starter, which is almost canvas. but that can be used to an advantage. Sometimes a video loop of the influences. Dayraa, 105 Albert a meal in itself. Mains include most sea swells at East Neuk are projected on one wall to evoke the right sort of Drive, Pol/okshi'e/ds, 0141 424 vegetable or lamb musakkas and the sensations. 7 7 75 3’70 A/ayar 792 Pm Street: sort of lean. succulent grilled kebabs As the name more than suggests. the emphasis is on fish. Normally the 0747 332 5300. that should remind doubters that the menu offers four (from monktish to halibut) with various options on how I Fans of farm shops will dish is worth far more than a messy. they can be prepared. That might include baked whole in parchment. applaud a new Stockbridge hurried scoff in the early hours. cooked in a curry—style dish or pan-fried. One possible choice. for example. business called the Store. It is Nightbirds will not be disappointed by might be poached salmon served with jasmine rice. chilli. tamarind and a family-run operation Hanedan. however: while it generally coconut broth. Or how about char-grilled swordfish with puy lentils. featuring their Aberdeenshil’e shuts at around 1 1pm, it is licenced till tomato. spinach and cardamon cream‘.’ farm's beef ' hung '07 three to 3am and is often open late on Robb‘s Chef is Australian Scott Price. who has also worked at Sally four weeks " and lamb; The weekends. It is also BYOB. although Clarke‘s in London. ‘The Bigfish menu gives the customer control in the Store also {mars scans“ there is a decent wine list. The way the food is prepared.‘ he says. ‘lt is prtxluce-driven and will be Cheeses’ “mes and ready, atmosphere. though, is cafe-like rather seasonal. I'm really pleased to be able to use the amazing fish and seafood Weak” A" the Stoc" 99mm” 3 than rowdy. and is helped no end by that is available in Scotland.‘ mm'mumpf saghaid'tweignd prOprietor and chef Gursel Bahar. who There won’t only be fish on the menu. however. Starters normally extend gfzzzfigsz'fioa: tom’ will happily pause from his IabOurs to to a vegetarian and a meat altemative — while the specials menu includes a Stockbfid 0131 $15 0030 . . . . . ge, . discuss exactly how one should cook halt-pound organic sirloin steak. char-grilled to order. I , rice (it's all in the butter, apparently). Meals aren’t expensive. with starters at £3.50 to £5.50 and main courses .A'mOSt 20 (“em "85h mm Indeed. the more you look, the more set at around £13.50. Bigfish is licenced and the drinks list features a fair dr'nks and smooth'es are on the colour there is. from the sparky humour trade house wine among the ten white and eight red options. All diners Tenutaht famegrannaég'i: of the menu (which tells readers the receive a complimentary glass of Prosecco sparkling wine upon arrival and Eeagfard: 8388;9er Edinburghs Turkish for “may I borrow yOUr bicycle mineral water With dinner. Food is served from 7.30pm. with last orders at Southside. In addition to its pump ) to the Sweet '“kY b'aCk COflee 19pm , , - 'fruitteria'. Pomegranate also sells that many diners end their meal wrth. Upcoming Bigfish dates are : espresso coffees. Even if you Hanedan is not for everyone - its lack 15 and 16 April don't see what you like on the of ceremony and snazzy features wil! 29 and 30 April drinks list, you can suggest your put some off — but if you're looking for 13 and 14 May own concoction from the fruit and belly-filling food prepared with real 20 and 21 May. veg available. Pomegranate, 91 attention for detail. it works a treat. St Leonard's Street, 0131 662 (James Smart) Bigfish at tho Commissary, 14 Bonnington Road, Leith. For 1557.
information and bookings, call 0131 555 6655. 1 14 Till LIST 14-28 Apr 2005