lisli colIcction hcrc also highlights nigiri (with pillows of rice topped with salmon. tcndcr tuna. octopus and prawn) with four ‘mixcd‘ maki and two hcl‘ty insidc-out rolls with centres of avocado and crab stick and l'inishcd with sesame seeds. 'I'hc platc made from a plain rooting slatc was attracti\c but a bit awkward for thc server; the soya dish is dcsigncd with thc yin/yang sigmoid. Miso has a full bar. with prc-cluh nights from ‘martini manicurcs‘ to [Ms Migucl (‘ampos or Andy llngcr.
At both Shushiya and Miso, plattcrs. of course. includc a good dab oI wasahi (grccn mustard or horscradish pastc). sliccs of‘ pink pickch ginger and soya sauce. And both ycnturcs ol'l‘cr cooked Japancsc dishes. whcthcr rice-based or hcnto boxes. as well as hinting that the menus are going to bc cxpandcd.
SUSHI FOR BEGINNERS While most of us Immediately associate sushi With raw fish, rice is really what it's all about. The Asian grain is the necessary ingredient in the Japanese speciality. Sushi rice is ‘marinated' or pickled in a solution of rice Vinegar. sugar and salt after it's been cooked.
The ideal is plump, firm grains that can be rolled Within sheets of seaweed (non) to make sushi rolls (makil which are then sliced into small pieces. Alternatively, the rice is commonly formed into tablets on which slender slabs of seafood, or slices of tofu Or omelette. are commonly placed: the style known as nigiri.
All sushi bars will also serve sashimi - raw. bite-size fillets of fish.
So. indeed fish is central to most of our appreCiation of sushi. And that's
1 10 THE LIST 3~t i” Mar 2005
EAT& DRINK
why it fits well in a place such as Scotland wrth the relative abundance of freshly landed fish and seafood. The fresher those ingredients. the better the sushi and sashimi.
One way to eat sushi (and sashimil is to mix the wasabi iwatch out. it's hot) in some soya sauce. dip the sushi or sashimi in the sauce and then add a thin slice of ginger.
SUSHI GLOSSARY
Gari Pickled ginger
Gyoza Soft pastry cases. usually stuffed with pork and herbs
Hijiki Black. spe‘ighetti—like vegetable Maki Rice and seaweed roll With fish and/or vegetables
Nigiri Rice topped with raw or cooked fish, shellfish or other ingredients Nori Sheets of dried seaweed Sashimi Raw sliced fish
Sushi Sweetened, marinated rice Temaki Cones of nori stuffed wrth sushi rice. fish or vegetables Wasabi Japanese mustard
Sushiya
THE RICE IS RIGHT
While YoYSushi may have rolled its iast ball of rice in Scotland, its demise shouldn't be interpreted as sushi's last stand. Here is a glance at spine of tire places that do it Japanese style
0K0, 68 Ingram Street, Glasgow, 0141 572 1500
This stylish Merchant City operation introduced the conveyor belt system of sushi service to Scotland long before YolSushi came north And it still goes round and round With arguably the best and most diverse selection of nigiii. maki. temaki. sashimi -as well as not dishes such. as katst. or tempura.
Niji, 64 Thistle Street, Edinburgh, 0131 226 7567
We rather miss the old ’larnpopo, the tiny place where chef Katsuo II()lll|§l£t-.‘.’§t started. but this more (:oriifr)rtal,le site allows him to stretch out in tne kitchen There is a full menu of Japanese goodies from noodles to liento boxes. and the sushi is handsornei, presented, lzzi, 1 19 Lothian Road, Edinburgh, 0131 466 9888
A hybrid Japanese Chinese restaurant near the capital's theatre land. In offers a small but sublime selectici‘. of sushi with some more exotic Chores. mm as flying-fish roe.
lchiban, 50 Queen Street, Glasgow, 0141 204 4200
The original ..Japariese-st,le riirue' Glasgow With a decent selector? of what its menu calls ‘Japari's most representative food': ifOl“ k ng prawn to crab stick; cucumber and niayc “a version of the infamous California roii. Second brancrt in Partick.
Bonsai, 46 Richmond Street, Edinburgh, 0131 668 3847 Slightly off the beaten track except for studentsi. this I’tuStlat‘i’J and smite-run bar bistro has a ncst cf ngxi maxi and sashimi on ilS menu of Ja'lt’JcJS Japanese delicacies,
I Ha!Ha! Bar and Canteen, part of the Yates pub group, didn’t have the last laugh in Glasgow and the site has been converted into the new flagship for Arisaig (pictured) restaurant, which began in the Merchant City. The basic formula is the same, with evocatively named dishes of modern Scottish cuisine, but the new premises are bigger than the old. In the bar/lounge area, Arisaig plans to complement its lunch and dinner menus with an all-day Scottish buffet. Arisaig, 140 St Vincent Street, Glasgow, 0141 204 5399.
I Across town in Merchant City's John Street. Cuba Norte and Vespa have been transformed into Favela. Linzie Powell is running the Baby Grand unit now. with David Sherry (fomerly of St Jude's) heading up the kitchen staff. Although the name is Portuguese for shanty town or ghetto. the menu is a potpourri of various national cuisines and dishes. from lime leaf coconut prawns to Moroccan beef. Everything is moderately priced, with mains running mostly around £7 to E8. Favela. 17 John Street. Glasgow, 0141 522 3505.
I Good early reviews are reaching Side Dishes about a new Turkish restaurant on the Southside of Edinburgh. Trading in the former location of Namaste, Hanedan is loaded with low-budget options, from meze to moussaka and lamb cutlets. The most expensive main course is less than £9. Hanedan, 41—42 West Preston Street, 0141 667 4242.
I Expect a higher public profile from the Edinburgh convivium of the Slow Food movement. A management committee was recently elected — including The List's guides editor Donald Reid — and one of its goals is to make the group. which advocates greater use of local and seasonal produce. more accessible to the public at large. ln other Slow Food news, Ayrshire-born Fiona Richmond has assumed the newly created position of UK Slow Food director and has said she will be based in Edinburgh. More at wwwslowfoodcom.