l | t ’ ' /r“ 1 t 0] V '1' t y r {1’ Hit" ' ‘ ' l‘-:i ‘ 7' ' H t wit it it i w i. iii i i' it ' ' ' .v : xiii -.m° .‘;.v'{. I '-'Tf (:[‘/;"‘r'1‘1'1{;"i[."’ {1‘4 :iW- 'il:' "'21: ’ ,ifi’iliiJii'd'l (,.(.,. ft} v .‘ 1,) ,,ii ,t') \f/rJi I, l t ' i ,‘,ii i
"'ii’;[/V(V1r,i’fi‘,.
(«it-' 'i i‘,tittiii;tiii,ti
«4' ;--".iit mitt."inw'iiimmrl TV,» ,: ,',t‘,'i- 1; f iii" imii trout ’ittt’ii‘l‘i um l’it‘li .iiiri tirl, .'.'itli a mi“ .'.i~.'~'r,' Uzi/(min; f.il()lli(i it'itii‘x
.l'i' tiiifi'i"'i' "'(iiirit‘diiiliiiifUliiiiiii)! tilitlil’).til'i(iit’li'llltitiiiiltiilfJiliilif '.iiiit.ii i.iili- ii,
.'i .i',it ll, 2w- iiiti- flirsxwiiii)
,tilll ( aloud.” itltiét‘,i
tilt/tititil'iidl’iil‘ ['1 the Royal [itittiiilic (“hi a wimp tit iilt‘ hon-I tor a pint (illti .tiilii' 'iiiirlwi t‘xtiitui'ti i rliiibiiigli' liolt hole. Till‘. ili‘; ttii‘: iHH. (Hui. fiiitéltiw I/(‘Htlylfl .‘.t"‘.t’(1/.tl'lh'i ///
"(H chi/71‘, fl) illi’viy). \( \(M'l/l'
ill tiii- 'lltutliil'llt:_ trii (til
or ii iii (Up/ii; the .‘L‘i/ /.‘. //(.‘(.’l7.‘£(.’(/ ti)
rri/i ii i/tj/ it.
124 THE LIST .‘A'i: L‘e.‘ ._\‘.‘-'-
Seeing red
EAT&DR|NK
Chef John Quigley’s new cafe/diner in Glasgow
celebrates ‘honest’ cooking, says Barry Shelby.
t's deia \ll all oxer again. :\nother meeting \\ ith the amiable chet‘ .lohn (Jingle). launching another ne\\ \entui'e in the cit} centre Hi. (ilttsgim. This time. honewr. it ma} he l'or keeps. as the} sa}. In partnership \xith \xil‘e (iillian. Red ()iiioii is Quigleys l'irst lull} independent operation and he appears \xell chatted with the decision. l’rex'ious hllsiltesses in the area included .\lo_io and :\i'thottse (irill. at both ol‘ \\hich ()uigle} \\ as lotinding chel‘. \Vhile around the corner on Bath Street. a restaurant continues to hear the local celehi‘it}
chel"s surname (until the lirst ot
the _\‘ear prohahl} i. he \\as onl_\ e\'er a lttittol'it} partner there. Something that. in the end. ‘doesn’t count tor much‘. he admits.
HaVing \‘ieued this location. where (iordon Ytliii «V (‘0 once traded. he began to pine t'or independence. He ma) ha\e ‘hemmed and haued‘ tor a period. but alter a holida) in (’alilornia. he and his \\il‘e decided to sign on the dotted line.
Then came a hit iii a rush to get the place open hel'ore (’hristmas. .\'ot much \\ as needed: a good scrub. some ne\\ graphics on the windows and a dash ot tresh paint.
With the open lire glouing under
the exposed stone “all. the room With its comho Hi hooths and tree- standing l‘ui'niture has a st}lish. li\'ed-in l’eel. coml‘ortahlc and casual. Linen napkins are neatl} tolded. but each table teatures a ketchup hottle. too. [:01' Quigle} that contrast perhaps encapsulates his aims. It he has to choose a terse description. it is ‘cat‘e/dinei”. he
sa_\'s.
Such \elisihiiilies are reflected in
the menu. as \\ ell: shepherd's pie and peas. itimho macaroni with three cheeses iii' a special iii~ the da} such as ltlcitlitttti. sanduich \xith mushroom gra\_\. Iilsexihei'e. ho\\e\ei‘. there are the global touches that man} ol tis itssttciillc \\ith the \tell—trtnclled chel': li\e- spiced duck \sith pak choi. nasi goreng \\ ith roast chicken and tiger prann salad \xith mango. lle sa}s it's 'honest and lair cooking‘ \shere starters rarel} top £5 and main courses range trom U) to U4.
\Vhile ne\ er a shrinking \ iolet (as his TV l‘ans \sell knim i. ()iiigle} plans to meet and seat diners during the da_\ and into the e\ening. allo\\ ing his chet's thoth ol \xhoin ha\ e been cooking \sith him tor the past tuo _\eai'si to take greater responsibilit} in the kitchen. Red Onion tittt) titil t‘eature ()uigleys moniker. but his personalit) should he t'irmI} stamped on it.
257 West Campbell Street, Glasgow, 07944 812495.
SideDishes
News to nibble on . . .
I ‘Quangle Wangle Nuggets of Gold’ (oven baked chicken goujons in sesame breadcrumbs with chips) and ‘Wummbly Jumblies‘ (baby pork sausages and mashed potato with broccoli mixed together) will soon be added to the bar menu of the Traverse in Edinburgh. Starting 6 December, the new children’s selection will coincide with the theatre’s festive season show, The Christmas Quangle Wangle. Running until Christmas eve, the special children’s menu is priced at £3.50 for main meals and £1 for desserts, such as ‘Pobble’s Pudding’.
I Rogue restaurant on Morrison Street in Edinburgh has closed. Side Dishes; and The list were big fans ol the operation and Will in ss all elements ol the venture. from its cinematic style and fresh cooking to the iir(.~pres£';ible character of owner DaVid Rainsden (Read his thoughts about the closure in ‘Rage', page 10).
I Fans of Baby Grand West End, at Partick Cross in Glasgow, have reason to be even more pleased with the venue these day. It recently landed two chefs — Chris Law and Duncan Wilson - from Brian Maule’s esteemed city centre restaurant and they’ve put their skills particularly towards some new evening specials to complement the standard menu.
I Lux restaurant. near Anniesland in Glasgow. is luxuriating in the news that the AA has given it a second rosette. The accolade comes )USI as chef Stephen Johnson and Wife Julie complete their second year as outright owners of the restaurant (as well as StaZione bar/brasserie on the same premises). Kudos.