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The Lndon eye
It’s one of the most talked about capitals in Europe, but London can seem dauntineg huge. Ruth Hedges finds that mixing art and food makes for an easy route through the city.
THE LONDON LOWOOWN
By train: GNER often does First Class otters. Call 08457 48 49 50 or buy online at www. gnerticketscouk. London Pass: starts at £12 per day. See www. londonpasscom.
Travelcard: the cheapest way of getting about London on alt-tormsoftransport: the tube. suburban trains. the DLR and buses. Can be bought at the station. Useful website www.visitlondon.co.uk Vital statistics Populationrzi7i2m. No of pubs: 3,800.
ott'\ e got a \\ eekend in London and _\ott \tattt to see as
mueh as possible. Don’t let tlte big \xt‘ithtng beast
itttimidate }ott this eit} is etamtttetl \xith lite and surprises \taiting around its gt'ttbb} eornet's and s\\;ttll\§ side streets. :\long mm .\'e\\ York it is the most mttltiettltttral metropolis iii the Western \torld. \xltet‘e l‘lo\\ er markets run into 'I'urkish delis and bagels beeome baits. .-\ long. wandering ltistor_\ ol‘aspiralion. maiest} and poxert} li\ es and breathes sometimes gasps \\illtlll its elammet'ing at'ehiteeture. But it‘s all reaehable. \et'_\ easi|_\.
WeVe plotted a route tltat takes _\ott round the eit_\ ttsing art galleries and museums as signposts. .\'ot onl} tttigltt )ou litttl the best new thing sinee slieed limin. bttt the} lta\ e tales and toilets. Whieh are intportant laetors \xlten ttttt't'e ottt on tour l‘eet lot a da_\.
So let its start at the British Museum. Right in the heart ol~ Bloomsbur} this megalith ol‘ a building emers [\Ht and halt miles ol galleries and has 7t).()t)() e\hibits. It has reeent|_\ beett itt the news more tor its l'unding et'ises. bttt trouble at t‘mill doesn‘t ehange the laet that this is a stunning museum. .lttst dip into one or I\\‘tt sections. .\ series ol' et'otie .lapanese prints l'rom the lilth eentur} make an interesting hall ltttttl’ tli\L‘l‘sittll. l3ltttttttslittt'}' is London at its most literar}. (tettrgian squares
are dotted with signs denoting
the ghostly presenee ol‘ Virginia [IT'S
“bolt and IS lilittt; the sense
ol‘ I‘)2()s soit'ees lingers iii the
air. Take a walk through
Rttssell Square tl()\\ll \\'obttrn
Plaee and along onto Woburn RIVERSIDE WITHOUT AN ART SPACE
Walk. This tiny latte has tales and book shops on either side and a great little greas} spoo. and is a eommott loeation t'or 'l‘\' and lilnt.
Alter retuelling. stroll tl()\\ll to littston attd take the tttbe to litnbankment. ehanging onto the ('irele/l)istriet litte to Temple. Here you‘ll lind )(ttlt'sL‘llltlsl oil the Strand and iii the sltittlttu' ol’ Somerset House. 'l'his palatial building. ornate attd l’arisienne itt style. houses the permanent eolleetion ol the (‘ottrtauld Institute. \tltieh inelttdes latnotts works by Rubens. (tainsbot'ottgh. Renoir. Manet. Degas. ('e/anne. \'an (ittglt. Matisse and Kantlittsk}. Outside in the Ctttltt)'itt'tl. a 55 viet ltttltttztilt sends \tater daneing high into the air attd a river terraee eale/restautant that is ltnel} itt summer. (‘ome winter. though. the eottrt_\ard tt‘itttslttt'ttts into an tee rink. It‘s llooded and l't'o/en lrom 25 \ttt'etttber. when sou ean glide rotnantieall} about this torehlit eoutt (£9.50).
Now baek on the tube and it's alottg to Vietoria (slit) on it )ou want the \tkAt. ('hange ottto the Victoria Line and head th)\\'II to Pintlieo where atttong all the leal} streets and regene} houses Tate Britain emerges in neo-elassteal sturdiness. Appat‘entl} ttsttrped b} its Modern sister up then Tate Britain. with a reeentl} opened rel‘ttrbishntent by >
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