NUl )lfl. t BAH WAGAMAMA
www.wagamama.com
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l—ood always (:omos out of tho kilol‘or‘ who." rt's 'oad, f'voro aw.- ‘.»::':""w:a . ho startors or mth (:oursos. lho \‘t’auart‘au‘a 'rzov‘u :s :1<>r“loa‘.<.~:: o. dIshos llrom a (:hIllr hoot concoction that makos tho oyos ‘.'.ato' t<; tho vouotariau ‘moyashl soha'l and sidos. su<:h as a rahuo of food 4 ~,o/a dumplihos or yakltorl t)art)o(:uod skowors. Hooutphaslszug; tho hoa tlrro' asooots of tho (:ulsluo. lhoro's a sootroh lahollod 'rax‘. \.'as:o.".'_ a (:l‘om: o‘ frut! and yogotahlo Juroos. Flsowhoro. a trio of moals listod uudor tlto titlo ‘oostlx'o oatlhg' should mako ordonhg oasy for tho ll()‘vl(l(}. ()r tho uow'muht =a./'j. l'lt? ‘(:omoloto wauamama’, for oxamplo. oltors s 2alood fathom. tt‘roo g;‘,t:/a ahd options of Juloo or soft drink. Slurp, slurp. IBarr‘, Sholhy
CULINARY thom NIGEL SLATER
Toast: The Story of a Boy's Hunger ll‘()tll'lllESIIII(ES\1(3.99)..
Nigel Slater has become a rather successful cross-over artist. Best known as a chef and newspaper columnist, he’s a TV personality ~ I - too. Increasingly, many take him to be a F" 1 7‘4 " W " serious author and Toast is his autobiography, which apparently began life y
as a short story. .
Toast also seems to mark something of a N coming out for Slater. Perhaps such anecdotes are legitimate expressions of pride, given our sad history of gay-bashing. Slater assures us that he has liked girls, too. But what does it have to do with food? Not much. As for his tale about a comely colleague masturbating into some raw beef: ho hum.
Aside from the element of sexual awakening, Toast is a chronicle of British food, beginning with Slater‘s 19605 Wolverhampton childhood, when spaghetti bolognese was seen as highly experimental home cooking. Slater certainly displays descriptive skills that are as useful for novels as for non-fiction. ‘Her attempt at covering the cake in marzipan resembled nothing more than an unmade bed,‘ is one of several passages about his mum's cooking. But elsewhere his similes fail him: ‘It is like he imagines he clubbed the animal to death and dragged it home through the snow like a caveman with a mammoth', he writes in an unflattering passage about his dad’s roast-cutting.
Which brings us to Slater’s rather endless earnestness, which can be as embarrassing as it is endearing. Unless he is writing a recipe book, I’m planning to avoid his ‘Iiterary' efforts. (Barry Shelby)
Food & Drink
Eat bchr l.ch lid-fer fl... for “the” healthy eating experien;e visit 9 He ml :2 Ho n r
bistro/bar, restaurant, wine bar, take away, party catering open 7.30am till late
ideal eating & meeting place an Edinburgh institution good value, appetising and all freshly prepared Henderson‘s famous counter display plus special dishes to order
94 Hanover Street, Edinburgh
2 mins from live local Princes musicians Street evening
Taking bookings for Christmas now. Please call for details
. . . “ 5 m
Fine dining
at a fraction of the price
Eat out for less
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mam OFAGEDMAI‘J" . .
’, ,' x ' THE LIST 113