Food Drink

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Eat out, drink up

.‘

I rim} nie.’ . til, 5. :3 wt ' & “ng tokc .och tglas Sal'.‘ . a i x 1Lax-at

:tl'l‘ll “ici’ill‘i‘i 'itl' Sill-t ltCt' ( Tl'lllt‘rl tl'.‘

.lllll \x'ltli ‘..litl

Bragging rights

Let the gloating commence: Glasgow lands Conran’s first ‘destination

restaurant’ in Scotland. Barry Shelby

ii the continual competition tor culinar} lu'agging

i'ighlx. (ilaxgou hax xcorcd xomething ol a coup thix

_\car. ltdinhurgh ma} ha\c rccei\cd Sir ‘lci'cnce ('onran and coiiipaii_\'x lirxt /.inc liar tk (irill in Scotland. hut (il.t\go\\ hax the lirm'x inaugural ‘dextination rextaiirant‘ north ol the border.

lllL‘ modern l‘l'L‘llc'll etain caught man} unauarex ax t|ie§ e\pected onl_\ the opening ol another hranch ol the /iuc chain in the l’rincex Square xhopping centre. So \xhat liappened'.’ Sir 'l‘ci'cncc c\plaiiix: ‘(‘)uite a lot ol people ha\e xaid to ux when \\c ha\c taken line to other ciliex in the IR: "/iiic ix line and it \xorkx \xell. hut \\h;it \xe rea|l_\ wanted \\ ax a proper ('onran‘x rcxtaui'ant. a poxh (‘onran'x l'c‘\l;ttll';llll.u lhix ix \\ hat \\e‘\e done here.‘

'l'ouchc. lake that lzdinltui'gh ior llirmingliaiii and .\lauchextei'. tooi. But heloic pride o\c‘r\\ltcltit\ perception. there \xei'e practical i'eaxonx tor opening hoth /.inc and etain in (ilaxgou. ('onran xa_\x that the contiguration ol the xpace and ohtaining planning peruiixxion lor a dedicated lill around the hack ol l’i'incex Square ix \\ hat prompted the colllltalt} to add etain to the llll\. \Vhile Xltic openx on to the indoor mall. etain ix tucked hehind.

'lhe l\\o operationx xhare one kitchen and the head chel l\ (ic‘tllll'c‘) Sltlc‘tltllc‘. ;t \olll} \ptlkc‘ll .§:-_\L‘;ll'-tiltl ll‘tilll l.ondon \\ho hax \\orked in l’i'ance. Prague and ('hicago. 'l‘he menu at etain lthrce coui'xe dinner lor LIN/Llh'fill lunclii ix meant to highlight li'exh Scottixh produce \xith dixhex xuch ax Bi‘audan ()i'ach xinoked xalinon. xoui' cream. ca\iai' and potato hlini; i'oaxt rump. conlit xhoulder ol lamli. dauphinoixe potato and green heanx or creme lti'ulee and “arm liluelterr_\ madeleinex.

48 THE LIST

‘I like the energy and style of Glasgow . . . it’s my sort of city’

Smeddlc xeex etain lilting in \xith (itll'tltlll Ramxavx .'\lll;ll')lll\. Brian .\laule'x ('hardon d'()r and Derek .\lai'xhall'x (iamha. '(ilaxgou hax a lo\el_\ hu//.‘ Siiieddle xa_\ x. 'Some people xa_\ it ix lit to liui'xting \\ ith rextaurantx. \Vhat cit) ixn‘t. though'.’ I think each i‘extaurant hax xomething dillerent to oller and we ha\e xoiiiething \pecial to ollei‘ ax \xell.‘

ln (ilaxgtm. ('onran the brand ix xtu'el} hettei' kno\\n loi' retailing. dexign and lurnixhingx. rather than catering opei'ationx. 'l‘hat can hoth hinder and liherate etain. ’l‘hei‘e ma} he lexx anticipation hut e\pectationx xhotild he more muted ax \xell. People might judge the place on itx (m n meritx.

|)expite a \\ell—co\ered prexx conlei'ence with Sir 'lierrence charming hoth hackx and photogi'aphei‘x he ix xoiuething ol a xuax e pei'loi'niing inonke} ax he \xillingl} chompx on hix cigar or toxxex a uaiter'x xerxiette o\ er a cocked arm etain hax had a xolt launch uxing little promotion. ‘Word ol mouth ix the hext ad\ei't.' xil)\ Smeddle. ‘;\nd it people then come hack lor a xecond time or a third liltlc‘. lllc‘ll llttll‘\ the l'L‘ill llc‘ltl lexl.‘

Slt‘ lliL'l'L‘llL’L' c‘tllllcch Li M)“ \ptll l‘ot' (ilaxgou. lll\ third or lourth llahitat xhop opened here what xeemx like agex ago. ‘I like the enei‘g) and xt}|e ol (ilaxgou. the gutxinexx and grittinexx ol(i|axgo\\.' he coox. ‘You knou. it‘x m} xoit ol cit}. ll I didn’t li\e in l.ondon another cit} to li\e in the l‘lx' (ilaxgouf

and l had to chooxe l'd prohahl} chooxe

étain (0141 225 5630) is open Mon-Sat noon- 2.30pm, 7-11pm; Sun noon—3pm. Zinc Bar & Grill (0141 225 5620) is open Mon-Sun 9am-midnight.

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Side dishes

News to nibble on . . .

I IN EDINBURGH, THE Living Room has opened at 113-115 George Street with a 140-seat restaurant and 250 capacity bar. It has no connection to the bar of same name in Glasgow's West End. Rather. this Living Room is part of UK chain with its self described “Living Ventures’ in London W1. Brighton, Oxford. York and Newcastle.

I OSMOSIS IS BEING labelled an ideal place lOr local punters to llllX With international VisitOrs. lhe new bar is located in the Euro Hostel on Jamaica Street. Glasgow. But it conversation proves (litlicult. guests can share the joys of four TVs and one big screen for sports. Licensing here is late as well. Of course. With 364 beds on the premises. yOu might want to Simply book one for the night. Prices start at $9.75.

I THE REPUBLIC BIER Halle and Stube in Glasgow have introduced a low calorie beer perfect for anyone on the Atkins diet. Each bottle of Michelob Ultra has but 2.5 grams of carbohydrates. The Southside Stube is now licensed until 1am from Sunday to Thursday and until 2am on Friday and Saturday. The only catch is that you must order a bit of food in order to have a late drink. Side Dishes has sampled the fare of new Stube chef Jamie Harvey (ex-Baby Grand) and a revised menu with a raft of dishes priced at £5.95. A light Iinguini with cherry tomato, rocket and basil (smashing garlic bread on the side and a complimentary shooter) was swell.