Shopping Fashion Special
MALCOLM BURKINSHAW
for Male/ier P, .w r s' as. ‘he rtefll“”‘1
'l")fl“:'ll in a career '\ fashiori was .'ia'.r;'i ‘.'.'a‘. Jive-,3; Cinderella as a r): «t couirt fcrget the scene .‘rtier? the "we rriake her dress?
After sturt; r‘r; at E rtiriburgh College of Art. Btirkiri'itiax.’ rtitt an MA at the Royal College cf A". anr: worked freelance ii‘ 1 ririrtrir‘. étl‘fi ltal‘, (designing friree collections for Benetfoni. Here. he gainerl xaluable experience and. together .‘.’lt'l RCA grarfuate l eigh Bagiey. returner) to E rlinbuigh to set up a ’.'."()lll(:llf>‘.‘.’(3£tl Ia'beI iiia! - ieigh with backing from the Prince's trust schen‘e.
lrenriy designer shop 8 and M in l onrfon's Piiihrose Hill freguentert by the likes of Kate Moss. Sadie Frost and Meg lvfatthews first collection and they are Just about
snapped up their
to launch their thiirt. ‘xrhich incorporates beautiftii prints and cashmere.
'We don't go for the obwously sexual side of fashion — you know. lots of cleavage.‘ he says. 'We are trying to do something a little more subtle."
Minimal and very stylisl‘. their range is all about achieying perfection. "the finishing is the most important thing to us, We want every single IIOH‘ in the whole collection to have garment appeal.‘
Style ethos Minimal. strong colours. 100‘) peifect.
Career high "The initial decision of setting up and coming back to Edinburgh. but we are still waiting for the high point and that Will be when we do our first London Fashion Week show]
I See i'vi’a/colrii and [ erg/i}; collection at WWW,riia/—/e/gh.co.uA or (:a// 0 737 2:38 0 I3 7; mobile 0 [98-1 3330-12: S and M. :1 7a C/ia/cot Road, Pririirose Hi/l, lontion, 020 7483 .1488.
CHECK OUT
The lowdown on the shops that stock creations by home-grown designer talent
GLASGOW
I Dr Jives Candleri'ggs, 552 5457. www. drjives. com
This urban emporium houses accessories by acclaimed knitwear deSigner Jo Gordon and items by Kenneth McKenzie's label 6876.
I Tribal Junki Wilson Street, 552 7078. A tripartite of local labels: Simon Munden's Katzen-Haus. Glasgow-based company
Densestuff and Aberdeen skate label
Casseus Cartel. I Moon Ruthven Lane, 339 2315.
The chic ladies b0utique just off Byres
Road is one of only two Scottish stockists of Holly O’Hara hats.
I Cruise Ingram Street. 572 3200. Urban outerwear designer Kenneth
1 12 THE LIST 8-22 May 2033
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McKenzie designs for Japanese label oki-ni.
I Lighthouse Mitchell Lane. 225 8422. www. the/ighthouse. CO. uk Scotland's centre for architecture stocks jewellery by a range of independent local deSigners. Watch out for the New Formations initiative in which at least half of the exhibitors are local.
I Hutcheson’s Hall Ingram Street. 552 8391. Dev0re scarves by Double Helix Design and Jewellery
beginning to pick up on her work Style ethos 30s to {tbs-inspired. decadent. saii‘ptaioiis '.'."|t". a "iiit of f>illlf1£t|l‘;fl‘ Career high ‘Getting in the glossies is a (frearh (;()ll‘.f: tr..e'
I See Ho/[V's hats at inns/Ly.rio/If/ofiararnr/i'i/ier«,1(go/h or ca/i' U/"r'z’v‘i/i 903803? / {zit/.r'ie-rmr‘ Ha/i'. 1:38 Ingram Street. Glasgow; Moon. 70 Hath/er: / ane. (E/i'iruow
HOLLY O’HARA How ll‘éllt‘, tribes have you heard .'.()ll‘.(}l‘ say hats ririn't szii: then"! for l'Iltilf‘o” Huii,
O'Hara. who feeis naked ‘.'.’lttt()tl? one. it's ai. about changing people‘s ’.’ili'.l:l,'.‘, ,
a lot of fun with
O‘Hara who initially trained as a fine artist. sturtietl iniilinery at Chelsea giriri Kensington College. Relocating to Glasgow in 1998 she Opera and then. 11') months ago. she set up her ’).‘.’t‘ label. l ike her last mole/twin.
fine art approach to fashion. ‘lt's xery much a hats and heels :riea.' she
by c0untless Scottish designers — including Shona Carnegie. Laura Murray and Cara Law — can be found in the histOriC burlding.
EDINBURGH
I Concrete Wardrobe Cowgate. 558 7 730. www.concrete
butterfly. corn
EaSlly the highest concentration of indigen0us designervvare to be found in Scotland. Here you'll find Roobedo classic womenswear by Ruth Morris; Tessuti retro T-shirts by Fiona McIntosh; Pick One accessories by textiles artist James Donald: Isobel Mowat‘s own-brand felted and pleated knitwear: Holly Fulton's contemporary take on Vintage designs; glass beaded bracelets by Alicia Mclnnes: feminine bags by Catherine Aitkin: and funky reSin Jewellery by Kaz
a hat is. 'A hat is like a piece of lingerie." she says. "It's sor'iethiiiri to flirt ttl"! "am
workerf freeiasae frir f;’.’1t'.l‘i'
which was exhibited at the l .ghtl‘iouse. O'l laia is strongly infiueiiiert b. the I“, is at": 530s. Think Wallis Siriipson. Brace Kelly. Marlene Dietrich anrl .larke Onassis lair it ,i range of materials fron‘ peacock feathers to classic fabrics. she takes a .er V, pa.ntr.ri,_
'lhe, are
ii‘eant to be naughty anti sexy and ll‘fl'l‘. absolatei, lope therix'
Showing werk as part of Annexe 2003 in tendon in October (ttl’l in Paris rte/t f‘ebiuary. her hard work is beginning to pay. off as the glossie‘. anri f}t_,'tl‘i°.‘, are non (Serinan [tile for starters.
Robertson.
I Comiche Jeffrey Street. 556 3707. The spring/summer collection by Holly Campbell-Mitchell is sold out. but the belitique is awaiting new deSIgns.
I Odd One Out Victoria Street, 220 6400. Vixy Rae WI“ launch her own label. Saul. at the end of 2003.
I Arkangel William Street, 226 4466. The boutique stocks ladies cashmere items by Rosemary Eribe.