Food Drink
eat@|ist.co.uk
Eat out, drink up
A watertight dining
Lock tactics
recommendation
Sail away from city stress. \v".’<>v'<l5;‘ Barry Shelby
he l'nion (‘anal gets a had rap. 'l‘ales ol~ partith
submerged shopping trolle}s and other dangers
lurking in dark. murk} depths are uiil‘ounded. :\t least as tar as I could see. Alter all. the \s'atema) is onl} about a metre deep. So. the notion ol' taking a \see cruise and enjoying a meal along the way is perl‘ectl} watertight: the experience is indeed recommended.
The rhythmic undulations ol' /.a/ou. the narrow lioat and restaurant moored near ()gilVie 'leri‘ace in l’oluorth. lidinhurgh. take a little getting used to. But once the sea legs are achieved it's a treat. ()wner/skipper l’ete Simpson. who used to run (‘al'e (iral'titi. likes to was lyrical about the flowering trees and signets seen in spring. But exen on a crisp winter's night. shadows and light l'alling on the boat’s steamed-up window s provide an ambient backdrop.
(‘hel (‘lare Johnston works in the rear galle}. \\lllL‘ll is about the si/e ot‘ a picture postcard. Xa/ou takes group bookings old} and agrees meals in adx'ance. 'l'hree courses cost £25. (‘ommon choices are steak with green pepper sauce. duck breast with plum and gooselierr} compote or vegetarian options. lloltle—cook'cd and wholesome liest
: i ll mm as ANISE PARFAIT
Chef de cuisine John Paul
describe .lolttislotrs coq au \ in and heoul‘ hourguignon. She ser\'es plent} ol \egctahle side dishes as \\ ell. And when the dinner part} is seated at a single long table. e\'er_\'one has to pass around the plates a test ol‘ courtes) more than balance. The space ma) feel a tad close with a hoat-lilling do/en. but rest assured. some will he unable to resist the urge to go outside onto the l.()I’\\1tl'tl deck.
"l‘he weather is i'arel} as had as people think.‘ Simpson sa)s. 'lt might he raining at first but later the stars come out. People “ant to has e a look. ’l‘here are a lot ol' things to enjo} as \\ cll as a meal.’
One “will ol' \sarning. ll someone has the bright idea that meryme should mine to one side ol' the ship to make room ltll' a passenger moving to the head. don‘t do it. Bottles skid across the table. lolloss'ed h} irrational thoughts ol‘ 'l'lir' l’er’lr/Ull xlr/l't’llllll't’ and chcl Johnston bolting out ol‘ the kitchen to suggest ealml} that perhaps not all stand to starboard.
For bookings call 0131 669 5516. More information can be found at www.2azoucruises.co.uk.
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Stage two
Soltrrvi tl‘t‘ it‘fiatiirr: mayo“, l'l vol/l .‘.’£lll:.'
McLachlan at Leith’s (fitz)Henry has created an ideal dinner party dessert that can be prepared early.
Ingredients
riiier; E30 '.'.t:'ti"‘ts; are (ESSUllT‘ill, 1520;; (T;tf3’.<)' sugisi'
(SC/i; lento" amt;-
510;; egg; solks;
80;; Pernod or. better still. g;()()fl :iiigiiif. haste;
:9 iii} £1'ill‘.(? leases;
iful‘i; .'." tailor; ZilOZtl‘i 'Y'tglk0f3{1l1l:'(:xi7'\iif(?l,fs'xE;éi".ll1;;f; Stage one — sabayon
H. a ‘é‘ittté? him. whisk the and .050; .ii‘t. the ;:;>l<:.iv is; l‘gtl‘f anti 3hr,- igoi‘s;ist<:-v”;, it; still lr‘ a hart. 53l().'.l‘. heat '3‘»;- saga! anti iciiio': I'Lli’fl‘.) together l1).'(?;iill7 2‘: max temperature of ' C ado the heater: egg yolks to the Sugar and
ltzinoo jtl'(‘,(?, .‘.'tl$l<|"t) all We Tl"‘€3. anti
farm ‘.'.’l'tt;--" salt. li:ll‘.()'.(: illtrlt‘. :iiiil
:;:iii<:r>/<: ’;.it (ill. excess .‘mter ()7: a
to; heat ‘.'.’£ti'"l The l)‘.,"lli’i(l (it‘d (llfif)()l‘.(3
the gelatin: i". This. Ailil ti'ii: .‘Jiil'tt l)(:l'li)(l arv: dissolurxt gelati'ir: riiixtiirt: 1:; We SEllfi'tyf)"
Stage three
Win; the r;rr:aiv: to a 'Ylir’lltll". peak Mix a l'ttle o‘ the satxijmh 'lti() the cream twat. tt‘rzh rhix ll‘ The rest
Stage four
Pour the mixture into moulds and "(20/(3 for a llill‘Ullll'W o‘ l'.'.’T) hours. Serving suggestion
Remove the iairtait from the l‘t()lll(lf3 aw} E;(il‘.(: on a cold plate ‘.'/|lll either a ratsiitxzrr, coolly, and ’N member”, Sir/Let tr; 9'10 a contrasting Esliarp'szs to the sweetness; of the parfait
I tit/Henna 7?) Shore P/ace, Eill‘il).i’§]’?. (N37 555 662:3.
Side dishes
An extra helping of news
I IGLU BAR has been tonnally launched by owner Charlie Cornelius. who is the great grandson of the founder of Biiitons menswear. Cornelius. a Napier biz ad grad. financed Iglu on the back of the risuig value of his New Town tlat. More details next issue.
I HALO IS THE NEW style-bar opened by Keith Murray and his November Leisure company on Melville Place, Queensferry Road, Edinburgh. Designed by Kerr Blyth Associates, it features a wall uphostered in red, modern-minimalist chandeliers and a picture mirror with a traditionally ornate frame made, however, of Perspex. Food is served weekdays from 11.30am to 4pm although plans include introducing bar snacks later into the evening. The menu changes daily, including dishes such as pheasant terrine and hallumi cheese, red pepper and bread skewers. Murray, 26, is one-time manager of Cosmo Italian restaurant (which is owned by his father, the former Rangers chairman David Murray). The next venture to open in April is the Circus cafe and deli in Stockbridge.
I IN GLASGOW, THE BON Accord in NOrth Street wrll kick off its two-week 30th anniversary beer festival on Valentine's Day. The pub was a pioneer in the real ale revival of the 19705. and beers from several of the surViving breweries that first supplied Bon Accord will be featured among more than 70 ales. While only 35 of the 100 or so UK brewers that operated in 1973 are still open today, the total number in Britain is now 430. says manager Sandy McKinnon.
" k ' ‘-’-t. 7/9, THE LIST 113