Food & Drink
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Eat out, drink up
New rewn' ROUND-UP
Tonic’s lunchtime atmosphere is relaxed and smart
mashed potatoes -- doesn't have the most appetising
appearance. it certainly fits the categOry of filling comfon
Coiriforting. too. is newcomer Garibaldi’s. Hanover Street's MCXICEill bar and restaurant. For lunch. the kitchen keeps; it concise. Their $37.50 set—price menu offers a choice of two starters (soup or salad) and three mains — nachos. enchiladas or tortilla del norte — as well as tea or coffee. But however restricted that seems, at least you get
a ring of authentiCity and the feeling that everything is
Tonic " i' i [t ; l 'v u l . i , .. ,;. i. i’ ,, I, . . \ .i mi ;i " t‘l"rll'l " 'i' t,." “Wt. '; 1» t ’ir ' fl‘.l i’l' l l’lil' i‘ ' i°"=i.:;r,riei<;ii;r<:laxe<laiitlthe \y. il‘v i i l l ; Wight/die}; re<:i'.-r‘.t 'Menu of food. ti‘i; \{3 i. .i.'..:ri t. Bar 38 i merit for (feli'v/ei'w‘ig a lapi ' i ‘t’f‘;.t loptariiiittliiess it » 'it;' n.) l ii ‘lx: riiik and iiiatt‘h forinat .,i~;ii" t;~ i ' i e u i:‘.e"\.“.'.‘herr: (indeed, it Tu. ripe: .r 'iiasiir ' “mia a; pears; to ire ‘.‘.'()l"r\'l'l{] at lili‘l‘ili' iii“. L. i:/.--I;'.:.,---’. :ivqiznl‘i. 'ii'itzt‘iitstoii‘.tiii'risouer fair}. 2 r :1». ii‘ tiii: .t‘.":'.lllf‘ i'ti:"‘.t~.‘,ii. i)“ ii ' i ‘ i i i -? 1:}. the eclectic offerings; :.e;i\.ini ' , ' i. . ' ‘l‘tlti’lt' fliifl'N, t}()lflf‘rl‘i l. i ' 'iv 'iririte'l (was cont; '1. :l. \ ’ '~"-.ii:i‘.i', ;:<:.>'»« the life out 'tlliélitiliui’W 1".."i r- t\--"..intl theorisriyporkparcels {in ~. ~.. ii. an: :a:'.. tit'ttiks. t:: a heavy dose of soy mic/aw 2' t' ":~.- 1 : "r‘i 'igisn a pile layered With \i F sprawling, ll‘()(l(3l'll Scottish Widows ROGUE BAR AND hulking. the setting is Significantly RESTAURANT different. But Rarnsden says he's
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‘;:oir‘.pleting a circle' by returning to the West End \.i‘."ilt}l(3 he ran a venue over a decade ago.
With Hogiie he has 'cast a wrder not. He says ifit/iHenry became ‘too focusea' and its price range 'too itarri With Rogue you can spend as unit it as ",Oll like. but there are lots of l;ii:f.;et .llltfll‘iélii'.'(?t3. He has given head chef Richard Alextrr‘ttei' ‘as much freedair as; pcssil'iie'.
Alexander agrees: ‘He lets me get on gait.” Basically the idea is this: no ritatter what you want. you can come il‘ .ind hate something that suits you. Tire Il‘iill‘i ccurses — the fish. the meat. the negetarian courses — is the stuff we were doing at Fitz. {But now] i have nasta. \"Je‘te got sandmctres. We mm:- the one-hoi-il salads.‘
Indeed. the new has scone: tiger prawn kebab i-xith piccaiilli and chives:
made from scratch. Head chef Alejandro Aranda and front- hoiise manager Francisco Ventura-Perez both hail from MeXico. Their chilli seasoning is Just about perfect: neither bashful nor overwhelming. (Barry Shelby)
I Tonic, 43a North Castle Street, 0737 225 643 7; Bar 38. 7.’?(>¥ 7 28 George Street. 0737 220 6780; Gar/baldr's. 97a Hanover Street. 0 737 220 300 7.
roasted vine tomato galette with lambs tongue lettuce; shredded duck with pickled cucumber sandwrch. Sunday will offer a ‘Brunch of Rogues menu. 'I don't do one type of food.‘ Alexander says. ‘l've worked on different continents and picked up a wee bit everywhere. I think there is a lightness to my cooking'
As for atmosphere. Ramsden brings a relaxed and off-centre approach. The decor features contrasts. the Juxtaposmon of contemporary with classical: white walls. black-clad staff. brushed aluminium chairs, table linen and goblets. Meanwhile. the soundtrack moves from Miles to Kruder & Dorfmeister to Bach tan idea of what's playing can be gleaned from the web site. www.rogues-uk.com and its link to dublab.) ‘With all that IS modern,‘ Ramsden says. ‘there is still a hook to the past.‘ (Barry Shelby)
I Rogue. 69 Morrison Street. Edinburgh, 0737 228 2700.
112 THE LIST. '
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Side dishes
An extra helping of news . . .
KOOK’S BAR/CAFE SHOULD open this fortnight at the site of the old Janssen's restaurant in Glasgow's West End. The new venue, backed by the owners of Nice ‘n' Sleazy (and named after a Bowie tune circa Hunky Dory), is going to put the emphasis on food. Manager Sam Saxby says head chef Simi Donald (ex~Grassroots) will serve up healthy, ‘vegetarian-triendly’ fare all day long from a diverse menu ranging from tapas such as Parma ham with sun-dried tomatoes to fresh Scottish produce to ‘big bowls of freshly made salad.’ Saxby adds that live music hasn't been ruled out, although it will likely be of an acoustic nature, while DJs with ties to Sleazy’s have been asked to create compilation tapes for day-to- daytunes.
GLASGOW'S G1 GROUP HAS replaced Caffe Latte With Moda, their new late-license bar in the Merchant City. Created by United DeSigners. the bar offers; an ‘aspiration enVironriient'. according to the company's own PR. which adds. 'no suits or un—hip outfits. fashion here is an eclectic mix . . a place to express indIViduality. and mix With like-minded people.‘ You've been warned.
IN LEITH, SOUL FOOD NOW occupies the former Pierre Victoire premises. Run by three veterans of the shore scene, the bar and restaurant features Southern US influenced food, from ribs to jambalaya. Between the twinkle lights and mirrored tiles, some might find the self-designed space something of an own goal, but the atmosphere is relaxed, portions heafty and the classic American soul’s definitely satisfying.
DON'T FORGET THE upcoming famers' markets in Paisley (its first) on Saturday 23 June. the Barras in Glasgow on the last Saturday of the month, and Edinburgh's Castle Terrace on 7 July. Support local producers.