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Caffe I n e
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We're traditionally a nation of hard drinkers, but these days it's as likely to be a double espresso. ls Scotland turning into a
coffee republic? Barry Shelby
Co“ee culture has arrived in Scotland. Seattle-styed Starbucks and Italianate Costa Coffees are proliferating like l)cil-ll'(.’S, while hip, smartly designed cafes specialising in the wee roasted from Arabia are becoming (c)’l‘,"‘.()lll)ldCP At places like Banana Brothers, Common Grounds, Cafe Ba'cocie, Caffeine, Tinderbox, Toast, Offshore and more, co“ee :s mng
Son-e sa‘,‘ cappuccinos now threaten the traditional pint as ‘_"t‘~ soc a1 lubricant of the lowland Scot Don’t believe :t, but p..:>' car‘s and bar managers have put their fingers to catering trade \‘.‘!leS Many proudly pomt to their shiny new cof‘ee machines and boast that the fresh brew is available all <1a.a"cl"=gltt
‘! .'.(‘icll : nexer go to a bar to order coffee,’ says Tinderbox "‘ar‘aciet‘ Bi ly Millar Hers what you might call a true >e.:e.er and Tinderbox, in '. s Byres Road, was one of '."t" 73's: places to make a big spas" .1"th coffee DQSigned by (wauee l'i‘ages, Tinderbox boldly ("a eitges the poll position held
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Po" l.'- 3a", coffee is not Just a product, to make it correctly is S()"i{‘i"lllg of an art, He can tell you about the correct a"g‘e o‘ blades in the grinder or the perfect temperature at c" m -c should be added (155 fahrenheitl. Tinderbox stas receive training at the local equrvalent of (annaccmo University. His enthUSIasm is infectious and the (it"‘e'd buzz. of the place until its llpm closing speaks for itse:‘ ' Av’e have as many regulars as any bar,’ he says. i'.layr)e more. We have a great trade in the evenings. People get tired of going to the pub.’
‘: don’t think coffee Will take over from alcohol,’ says Paul Cooper, manager of Edinburgh's Cafe Baritone. 'But there is
Given the national affection for booze, cigarettes and chips, why shouldn't we take to coffee?
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Glasgow's Tinderbox is at the heart of Scotland's cappuccino culture
room for both' His alcohol and smoke-free 7one, open from 8am until 8pm, sees a steady flow of businessmen, students, and locals. Across town is Caffeine on Dunclas Street, opened three months ago by two exiles from London They chucked in their day jObS, sold their flat and put the nest egg towards a coffee shop in Edinburgh 'We both love coffee and always wanted to open a coffee shop,’ says co- owner Alison Tudor, once an interior designer for Conran restaurants Caffeine's clientele is largely from locjai firms, As for the competition between cafe and bar? ‘The idea of gomg to a pub for a business meeting is perhaps now seen as uriprofesSIonal,’ she says,
Back in Glasgow, at the cafe/bar in Stravaigin, manager James Atkinson can tickle a pretty mean espresso from his ltalian Gaggia machine. But he never expects coffee sales to outstrip the licenced trade, ’We’re not necessarily selling more coffee,’ he says, ’but people are getting more adventurous and ordering a wider variety of cups '
So what is really gOing on. do we desire the cafe society of Paris or is it the popularity of TV's Central Perk at work7 In the View of those behind the hissing coffee machines, it is about chome and the public’s diversifying tastes. And it may be about coffee itself. Barcode's Cooper says ‘It is more addictive than alcohol.’ Given the national affection for booze, cigarettes and chips, why shouldn't we take to coffee? The ultimate secret to its success it’s bad for you.
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L. H l I] I q ,1 j H) 1 l 1 I -] For those ofyou who haven’t , ‘ ' ’ J g, already got a copy of our Eating - -~r_.--.-t~ i set: and Drinking Guide to Edinburgh
Hit list
Your local slice of coffee heaven
Raise your coffee cups at Toast
Fratelli Sarti A taste of the continent rather than the splash and dash of the new stylish coffee houses You might, if the weather iS right, find a table on the Wellington Street pavement There :3 a full menu if you want more tha.n oiscotti to accompany yOtir espresso
=13 733 VVGII/lllglO/T Street/727 Bath Street, Glasgow, 0747 204 0440.
Tinderbox The self-proclaimed espresso emporium, Tinderbox sells the latte lifestyle by the bowlful a Graven image design, busy corner :ocation, the floor-to- c.ei mg windows, ‘unky s0undtrack, and a caffeine-infused buzz pretty much all daylong
fr“ 789 Byres Road, Glasgow; 0747 339 3 708
Toast The modern l‘iilerchant City cafe was praised recently by Guardian food ect'tor lxlattnett. Fort Try cnnamon toast and a huge mug of cappuccino for breakfast
cl? 84-‘86 Albion Street, Glasgow, 0747 552 3044,
Caffeine An oasis of calm The owners gave up their ;obs to open up tbs one and coffee toners should be gratefu'
ii 754 Dundas Street, Edinburgh, 0737 557 8724.
Common Grounds C'assic bohemian coffee house on a fantastic sight 0n the mound Try the Keith Richards, fOur espressos n one cup
12*? 2/3 North Bank Street, Edinburgh, 0737 226 7476
Favorit A cleightfti' cross between New York and Rome And like those Cities, this is a cafe that likes to stay ap iate Both branches 0" Favori: offer a cof‘ee fix until 3an‘
1;; 30-32 Lei/en Street, 0737 227 7800, 79/20 Tevrot Place, 0737 220 6880
and Glasgow, it will be available again soon in good bookshops at a price of £3.95. We try to keep it as accurate as possible and here are the latest changes and corrections to our entries.
The Green Room at Glasgow's Royal Concert Hall is open on concert nights from 5 30pm until 9 30pm For nights on which there are no concerts, call ahead to confirm
Pit The Green Room, Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, 0747 337 2555
Antoniou's Taverna is open Mon Fr: 9am llprn, Sat/Sun noon llpm iSun opening Oct Apr 5 11pm» Greek nights occur every weekend, phone for details
57: Antoniou's Taverna, 532 Sat/chie/ia/l Street, Glasgow, 0747 227 7636