BACKLIST
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I Chicago Meatpackers 50 Hope Street. 248 4466. The 'packers is celebrating its sixth year in Glasgow with some wallet-pleasing special offers. For one week. l3—l9 March. the restaurant is reverting back to its 1988 prices and. if your birthday should fall in the same week. you can have a bottle of house wine on the house. as it were.
I The Jaipur Mansion to Newington Road. 662 9020. Elegance is the most fitting word to describe the Jaipur Mansion; sited in a Grade A listed Georgian town house. the restaurant drips finesse and promises culinary pearls. Guests have a choice of three dining areas. all decorated to a very high standard with ornate murals. lofty ceilings. intricate cornicing and even wallpaper which is handmade in Bond Street
in London. Not surprisingly. the restaurant has already won awards for its decor despite only being open for three months. Should you prefer to eat ul fresco then plans are afoot to erect a Bukhara-style tent in the landscaped garden. This should help to even out the more volatile swings of Edinburgh’s weather and. come the summer. Newington may well be sizzling with the sounds of a Bombay barbecue.
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FOOD & DRINK
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Timelesst classic style at the Jaipur Mansion
The man behind the building‘s transformation is Tony Hussain. who also runs the highly successful Babur in St Andrews and was instrumental in setting up the town's Curry Appreciation Club. Certain members of the club recently made the papers by eating a three- course lndian meal in full dinner dress on top of Arthur‘s Seat in a torrential downpour. As slavish devotion to a particular kitchen‘s
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MON & TUE‘ 8AM-4PM WED-5A T MAM-47M 6.307M-IOPM fUNDAY$ HAM-70PM
183-185 9012615 ROAD EDINBUKWI
037-538 8892
produce goes. this borders between the obsessive and the insane but nevertheless bears testament to the spell which Hussain‘s kitchens can cast.
Hussain has obviously invested a lot of time. money and thought into his latest venture and it shows in every detail. frotn the carefully folded linen napkins to the sparkle on the swan-like wine glasses. The same attention has been applied
to the well constructed menu which follows the culinary history of the lndian subcontinent from the time of the Mughals. through the colonial period and up to the present day. The changes in the subcontinent‘s history and cultures are reflected in its cuisine: the drier game-based dishes of the Mughals giving way to the poultry and sauce of the Raj before moving on to the pot poum of influences winch infuse modern lndian cooking. Vegetarian meals are not an afterthought but an integral part of the menu. one chef being employed solely to cater for those who prefer not to eat meat. The choice of dishes is not hugely extensive. the head chef Mohammed Saleem believing that it is better to concentrate the attention fully on a few dishes than to merely skim the surface of many. Fighting the good fight on the thirst-quenching front is a range of draught and bottled beers including the lndian l.al Toofan or Red Storm as it fiercely translates to. The oenologists can sample the lndian house wine Chhabri. or if vou don't
feel that adventurous you could just stick to the chablis.
Given the luxurious nature of the surroundings and the quality of the food it would be unreasonable to expect bargain basement prices. However with most of the main courses falling into the £9~£l5 range the Jaipur Mansion is heading towards the top end of the market. As is almost always the case. you get what you pay for. (Jonathan Trew)
I Black Bull Bitter T & R Theakston‘s advance into Scotland continues with the launch of a new cask ale. Black Bull Bitter. lt has a dry hop character making it a bit of a thirst quencher with an ABV of 3.9 per cent. The potion was first brewed last year to celebrate British Pub Week and was so popular that production continued long after the Pub Week celebrations had died down. The brew was delivered to various pubs throughout Scotland on 6 March and will have settled beautifully by the time you read this. (Jonathan Trewi
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VIVA MEXICO?
“sensed PESCS ur‘aht
LUNCH — 12'—2.30pm ‘- EVENINGS — 6—11pm (last orders 10.30pm)
10, anchor close, Cockburn Street EDINBURGH 226 5145 50, east fountainbrldgo EDINBURGH 228 4005)
41 west nicolson street edinburgh (0131) 667 6676
Cafe Mon-Sat 10.300m - 5.30pm Bistro Wed-Sat 5.30pm - 10.30pm
simple good taste
334 7165
The List 10-23 Mar I995 91