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heating. the plates are warming and the dining room looks a picture . . .
I don‘t so much feel sorry for this rather smug creature as think that she has stripped the whole thing with her efficiency — she has deprived not only herself. but the rest of her family ofthe fun of it all. Have it all in the freezer. whip it out. then you have the whole morning free — for what? To stare at one another. or guess what words ofwisdom the Queen. that mother of families. might dole out at 3pm. I would rather be fighting over which stuffing gets to go in the bird. or swiping brandy as I beat the butter. any day. _ . Let‘s face it. those for whom ' o ‘ ‘ ” Christmas is primarin a religious Poetry in Motion. Liz Lochnead tastes twelveoi the tinest wines under£5. occasion are in the minority
DOUGLAS ROBERTSON
warmth. FratelliSarti, 133 I oris it blackberry?‘ Boiled sweets. cathenne Fellows tells the Ewen.“ have thc,lr,PlaCC' hm we are Wellington Street, Glasgow. 041 248 i balsamic vinegar. a hint ofcigar box? festive food writers how it gag 2228‘ i Wh‘i‘ thc‘heut We all awed. mm 1‘” really iS. that is the lc ititnate focus. the I Undurraga Sauvignon Bianc, 1992 I that it was delic10us. Ublqllllous . . g . . . . (Chile) £3.99 Bit ofdisagreement Chip, 12 Ashton Lane. Glasgow. ()4! prmmpal remaining mu“) the link here. Liz found it too dry: ‘paint 334 5007. Baked your cake vet? Made vour mm the pa“ and mm one another. stripper— I just don‘t like the taste.‘ I i I Teroldego Rotaliano, Ca Donini, puduiu‘g? Glucecu your fruit", iced loved the dryness and found a g D.0.C.,1990(ltaly)£3.99 Caramel your trufflcs‘ glazed your hum, balance and complexity of flavours— : nose, smooth. homogenous. steeped your sloesr ruuncd your It WOUld seem that the whole hay,grapey fruit — unusual in a wine ; lingering. Liz thought it was lovely wine. yuled your log. stuffed vour festival rests on the shoulders ofthts price. Peter Green, 37a/b l but didn‘t taste Italian —- perhaps dates. peeled your nuts? No?‘No! fa certain midd|e-a ed Warrender Park Road, Edinburgh, I because it is from the far north. near The wrath of the food writers upon 0 - g . 031 2295925. 3 Venice. Fratellt' Sarti'. 133 Wellington you! Your Christmas could be a woman who bus'es herse" ! I Les Rants (18 Bergelle, Cotes de ': Street, Glasgow, 0412482228. disaster! Perhaps by the time you : behind the scenes [or weeks Saint-Mont, 1990, (France) £4.15 1 I Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon, 1990 read this it already has been. You | and then emerges serene on i ‘Fruity and flowery- I would buy this (Chile) £4.35 ‘Very rich ruby. pear can‘t say you weren‘t warned; vear the ()3 i one,’ said Liz. A richer. less dry 3 drops. old English Spanglcs smell. after year the tips for the v y. whhits. a bit ofhonevy; moBre k 1 i Really bites at first. but by the third super-smooth Christmas come thick 3 i c ar onnay-type. ine as et, 44 g taste I‘m liking it.‘ said Liz. and fast as earl as October. You 'ust ' . , . ~ . - , . -- .. . i Dundas Street, Edinburgh, 031557 ‘ Definitely sharper and more tannic can‘t be too preypared for this feasi of iiirtfiztttrlafiggnirmli yd“ f 2530. than the other reds on our list. and feasts. the . ,f th . f ) ,dlilg‘. -d f. m i I Naveran Blane de Biancs, (Spain) low on fruit. but pleasingly woody But. who exactlv are you? I'm 5 .VCEEL )f I; .(( .‘V (1“! l £4.09 I’retty blush colour, very dry and peppery. Peter Green, 3 7a/b sorry — that was rather blunt. I just ' :11 bcimail; .d him in?“ b .0” (c ancccllclmsp andllight — and fru1ty: Liz Warrender Park Road. Edinburgh, have a bit of trouble picturing you in gm the mogtLPart iggfifiscfiyigli . hive iflifificiiieasihfsg 323$? (:ééiiiiggojrnaine ties Pins Vin tie your pint-1y p'ping rosettes" DO you to the Big Day that “we wmccmm ! much character Wine Wev” d P 0,0 0 b . : have chtiirboys on the radio while between the production and the How ate Wines. 1 Chamberi’iS‘treet (Faryasnce) 289 Eli/net saliwgnon'.1?g1' yo.” do it") Am you a father with Six consumption l5 {0'1 ‘ Smells "f baking i Ed. g h 031,2251479 ’ . - me mUChams ttnd children. a grandmother. a woman lingering in the house and crocks still 1" “’8 r ' 1 to favour New world and Eastern of3() cooking for no one but her wet on the draining board for European Cébemm sau"18n_0n5 QVCT lover? How many mythical. example? My ideaiof the perfect ; FrenCh at “"5 PUCC~ and will]? this: munificent providers are there out Christmas morning is one where the I Palomas Pinot Noir, 1986 (Brazil) ' “’35 Perfecuy dnfikablfi Wllh “5 him there? How many mythical family whole household is scurrying 'ibout £4.95 An enticing aroma of coffee l 0f‘9l’aCC0~ we d‘d not find it hugely Christm'dSCS? ’ a in feverish~ re 'ir'itions the ( here that we are sure was more than g excmng' Wm" Bus/“7' ’44 Du’ldas There‘s that respected Prue Leith — aImOSplICI'EChZ‘I‘E‘Cd with autosuggestion. In fact. ifit had 7 5mm, Edmburghv 031.5572530- even she has come up with a anticipation — even the eventual tasted as interesting as it smelt it ‘ I Peter Layman" Class'FR9d.1989. Complete Christmas this vear to rival popping of the corks can’t beat the would have been a winner_ As it was, (“mm”) £319 MCI With . Delia. in whose be~ribbohed wake banter in the kitchen) we found it very drinkable, but ‘ UnameUS approval‘ and "01.11151 she travels. It would seem from these But I certainlv don‘t feel like telling ‘ thinner and shorter-lived than might l because ‘t was “I? I?“ ‘0 be. "led. A3 two gurus that the whole festival you how to runtvour Christmas — or have been expected from the usually the label says, thls ‘5 ‘1 C1355“: “3d — bit rests on the shoulders ofa certain what to do with'your old bits of velvety Burgundian pinot noir 3 0f berry {mm b“ Olwow; cn9ugh middle-aged woman who busies turkev for that matter. If The List is grape. Elicited nothing but a grimace ,3 met? to encourage 'PVCSIIEBUVC herselfbehind the scenes for weeks read by the kind of people who write from Liz, Pee/(hams and Rye, 21 l SIPP'QS rather than Simply CODtCmCd and then emerges serene on the day. it vou‘are probably a vegetarian Clarence Drive, Glasgow, 041334 slugging L123 ‘Mmmin - 1-SmCllS beaming at her loved ones in the 1 anyway. Maybe one ofthese days 4312 (and Peckhams branches), “1‘6 Cm 8‘355‘1 m bicgmmng ‘0 5‘39 knowledge that her turkev will be when it's all over. I'll bump into‘you I LA. Cetto Petite Sirah, 1988 What they "lean- - -‘ WI"? Wella'ld perfect by 1.30pm. the sprouts are in a restaurant: you can satisfy my (Mexico) 24.30 ‘This is lovely: deep I Howg‘m’ Wm“, 1 Chamm’“ 5"?“ peeled. the cranberry and bread curiosity about the apron andtell me : pink colour, really blackcurranty— Edl’lbu’gh, 0312251479 sauces in their pans just need i how it really was for you . . .
The List 18 December 1992 — 1-1 January 1993 99