BAGKLIST

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Cafe owners took great pride in the appearance of their shops, and a few still bear testimony to the wonders of vitrolite and art deco encrustation which became archetypal cafe style in the 303. Even modest

establishments offered staggering

displays of confectionery boxes, luring in passers-by to part with their money at the sweet counter.

The Second World War was a time of trauma for the immigrants, and of shame for the communities which

had taken them to heart. Italian men

were unceremoniously rounded up

i

L—.-—“-- *m‘ 82 The List 20 November—3 December 1992

and interned, and the cafes vandalised, often by the very people who had patronised them. Nevertheless, the women carried on, making do with rations and home-grown veg, and playing host to GIs and infatuated lassies. In the 505 and 605, the arrival of the juke box made cafes very exciting places to be often the only places where that new phenomenon the teenager could hear the latest hits in their full glory - and there would be gaggles queueing up on the pavement outside. The cafes saw the arrival of rock and roll, the teddy boys, the bikers, the mods, the beatniks the Scottish scene was there , and there was nothing more potent to be had than a coke spiked with asprin. Youth clubs were set up emulating the cafe atmosphere , but it says a lot for the Italians that these never achieved the same popularity. As ever, it is the personality and

. constant presence of the owner that makes a place ‘real’: as you can see

: from the survivors - Nardini’s at

Largs and Luca’s in Musselburgh are

a couple of famous examples - and from the modern day descendents,

the Fratelli Sartis and Valvona &

Crollas of this world, who at last

' have a market for genuine Italian produce. Our current crop of

variously owned continental cafe

bars may be serving gallons of

cappuccino, but they wax and wane. Few are central to the lives of their

customers in the way the Tallies were ‘, and still are in some places.

. Stumbling into a cafe on the East

7 Coast recently, I felt as though I had

I stepped into someone’s front room:

lml 1:1 Ubiqu

MACALLAN RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

SCOTTISH WINE MERCHANT

everyone turned and smiled. I was ushered to a seat at one of the formica tables, and before my beans on toast had arrived I was joined by a big rosy woman in her 705:

‘I-Iaven’ae seen you in here before, on your holidays are you hen? Nice wee ring that you’re wearing! Dreich weather for a holiday . . . Cosy in here though, isn’t it?’

‘Call Me Mamma G has been made for Radio Scotland by E-Force, an independent production company aimed at promoting links between the broadcast media and the wider community. The first programme will go out on Wednesday 25 November at 1.30pm and 7pm, the second, on Wednesday 25 November at the same times.

J1 *- . itoas Cbip

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

OF THE YEAR

TEL: 041-334 5007

FOOD

i

FLAVOUR OF THE FORTNIGHT

PIERRE LAPIN

I A recipe devised by Chet Nick Carnegie I at Edinburgh’s Pierre Lapin, the

vegetarian wing at the highly

5 successlul chain of Pierre Victoire

restaurants.

FILO PARCEL WITH OYSTER

j MUSHROOMSASPARAGUS AND

3 TARRAGON

Serves tour:

; Filo pastry, 2 sheets, 5in square per

person 8 shallots linely sliced

1 bunch asparagus, or 4 spears each 1z‘zlb oyster mushrooms

nob of butter

dash oi brandy and port

4 sprigstarragon

Sweat shallots quickly over a high heat, turning to avoid burning. Add asparagus and cook to taste. Add oyster mushrooms and saute lor another minute or so. Add the brandy and port then reduce the liquid away. Finally season with salt, pepper and tarragon. Put this mixture aside to cool, and prepare the lilo pastry. Brush each sheet, back and trout, with melted butter. On each double 5in square, place a quarter of the mixture. Fold the pastry over to make a triangle, and then bring the three corners up and twist them together to iorm 3 ‘Dick

l l l i I

Whittington’ hat shape. Bake for about 8 mins or until golden brown at 2006, 400F or Gas Mark 6. Tie chives around the neck oi each parcel and serve immediately with orange sauce. ORANGE SAUCE

Pour 1/6 pint orange iuice into a pan, bring to the boil and reduce by hall. Add

' 2 tsps honey and 402 unsalted butter

and reduce further, until the consistency is syrupy. (It you go too iar just add a dash more orange juice.) Roughly chop a bunch oi watercress, or your choice at lresh herb, stir in and serve.

WHOLEFOODS O ORGANIC FOODS 0 MACROBIOTIC FOODS O VEGAN FOODS 0 HEALTH FOODS O ETHNIC

FOODS O VEGETARIAN FOODS O SOYA FOODS 0 HI-FIBRE FOODS 0 DIET FOODS 0 GLUTEN-FREE FOODS

e BROUGHAM sr. TOLLCRO. E: 3 228 1651 37 enouonron sr. EDINBURGH TEL: 031 557 1911

CAFE BAR

CHRISTMAS MENU £13.75

OPEN 8:1m TILL LATE 3-7 Elmbank Gardens

Charing Cross. 041 248 4942

COT’IIER'S

CAFE/usnuunmmrm

CHRISTMAS MENU LUNCH 212.50 - DINNER £15.75

93-95 Hyndland 51. Solo/ (011 Highburgh Road )0.

. {V in the West End) \ . 041 357 5825

( ) 2.

(/3a 2 217x211 ) (

«(1) ran

0 (7 Z l (.7 CHRISTMAS LUNCH £12.50- DINNER £18.50 (PARTY BOOKINGS ONtY)

RESTAURANT AND CAFE BAR 40 High Street, Merchant City 041 552 2070

HOTEL RESTAURANT AND BAR

CHRSTHAS MENU LLNCH £15.00 - DIINER £21.00

Live Entertainment in the bar downstairs 28-32 Cathedral Square Beside Glasgow Cathedral

041 552 351 9