BACKLIS'I'
LA PARMIGIANA RISTORANTE
Sandro Giovanazzi ol Glasgow’s Italian specialists, La Parmigiana Ristorante, shares the recipe tor his popular Seafood Risotto.
RISOTTO ALLA MARINARA Serves tour:
1 lb clams in shell
1 lb mussels in shell
V2 lb cleaned squid
1/. lb peeled shrimps
4 chopped shallots
6 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves chopped garlic
Vi glass white wine
12 oz arborlo rice
1 tbsp chopped parsley
3 pints water
tresth ground black pepper
FLAVOUR OF THE
Sandro Giovanazzi cooks up some seatood,’ ltalian-style
Clean the shelllish with a scrubbing brush under running water. Put them in a saucepan with ball a glass of water, and boil until they open. Remove meat lrom shells, strain the liquid and set
FORTNIGHT
aside. Bring three pints oi waterto the boil, add some salt, the cleaned squid and the shrimps, cook lorten minutes.
Remove squid and prawns, lilter liquid and add to other liquid. Cut squid into rings, set aside.
Fry shallots in oil over a moderate tlame, add garlic, do not brown. Add wine and reduce over a high ilame tor one minute. Add raw rice and all the tish. Reduce heat. Mix, carelully coating the rice and lish with oil in the pan, and gradually add the liquid about one ladle at a time, keeping it on the boil so as not to interrupt the cooking process. Do not drown the rice. The liquid must be absorbed slowly. Continue to stir until the rice is cooked. Season with parsley and serve.
La Parmigiana Ristorante, 447 Great Western Road, Kelvlnbidge, Glasgow, 041 334 0686.
and ubiquitous baseball cap - the different barrels are blended and the wine bottled ready for consumption. Apparently. the only ageing most bottles get is on the front seat ofthe automobile; in the US. 95 per cent of
wine is drunk within 24 hours of leaving the shop.
In the tasting room the deference to European tradition continues with medieval-style wood reliefcarvings and wall-hangings. Here our glasses are filled. and in unison we gasp at the rich colours. swirl the liquid around and sniff the ‘well-developed fruit and oak aromas'. before letting our tongues appreciate the acidity- sweetness balance and that all-important warm bite ofalcohol.
It has not always been like this. The first Californian winemakers were Spanish Franciscan monks in the
Schram. Beringer and Niebaum planted their vineyards. built the mansion-wineries and. above all. founded the dynasties that have shaped the valleys history.
Prohibition put a serious kibosh on things. The only winery that stayed in production was Berigner—
The air may be lilled with a heady fragrance at ripe truit, butthere is nothing bucolic about this set-up.
18th century missions. They started a i
tradition of using indigenous Indian labourers to tend their vineyards. Now it is California‘s Mexican underclass who do the dirty work. It was not until the mid to late 19th century that pioneers. such as Krug.
communion wine was permitted. Although prohibition was lifted in 1933. the valley did not return to life as a wine-producing area until the late 60s when wine-drinking became fashionable again. Many ofthe larger wineries are now owned by multi-nationals like Nestle and Coca-Cola. but the dynastic tradition of the region is still alive enough to have filled the l()()()-odd pages ofJames Conaway‘s real-life soap saga. Napa: The Story of an American Eden. with tales that our
tour guide didn’t tell us.
Maybe it‘s the romantic notions of the rich and famous — Francis Ford Coppola and Mrs Walt Disney are among those to have bought wineries — or maybe it‘s the relative conservatism ofthe American market. but the perfect pure Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon have been established as the ultimate ambitions of most Californian winemakers. Interestingly enough. these two grapes. traditionally used in the fine wines of France‘s Champagne and Burgundy regions. are often billed in the US as ‘the world’s most prestigious‘ rather than ‘tasty‘ varieties. Having been dazzled by its technology and elegance of its wineries. it seems strange to me that Napa should still be searching for prestige in this way. As I send another perfectly pleasant. but predictable mouthful jetting into the spittoon. my only regret is that more winemakers do not put their trust in the valley and their own judgement. and dare to be different.
FOOD
V IN PRINT
I Cuisine Courante Bruno Loubet (Pavilion £17.99) When I read the author‘s impeccable culinary credentials— raised on a smallholding in Bordeaux. trained at a string of Michelin-starred establishments. Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year and Raymond Blanc protége’ — I feared that we might have another petulant. humourless perfectionist on our hands. But thankfully Bruno Loubet is different. He is no less ofan artist and. as these photographs show. he is ambitious and his results are exquisite. He is. however. intent on making the best of new haute cuisine accessible and enjoyable for the amateur. Introductory sections dealing with techniques. ingredients and basic stocks and sauces prepare the way for hassle-free cooking- none of this 'take a tablespoon of hollandaise'. assuming that there is a supply handy in the fridge. There is deference to cost. availability and expediency: you can use yoghurt instead ofcream. vanilla essence instead ofpod. ifyou have to. Vegetarians and fat-avoiders are allowed to be gourmets too. There are simple and cheap recipes. like trout fillets baked with tomatoes. ginger. chilli and lemon grass. and loin ofpork pot-roast with vanilla. The recipes show an inspired use of flavours but a typically French appreciation ofunderstatement. With this book by my side I would happily spend the day wrapping scallops in wafer-thin potato slices or arranging carefully moulded ‘quenelles‘ ofalmond ice cream in a pool of blackcurrant compéte. (Catherine Fellows)
NEXT ISSUE: FAST rooo
IN NORTH AMERICA
I Roux Scholarships Interest in the Roux Diners Scholarship has been flagging in Scotland
in recent years. so there is main dining room with aspecial drive to G'asgow light decor and encourage talented I Killerrnont Polo Club Chippendale chairs has a
Scottish chefs to apply for the prestigious award. The award-winner has the chance to train for three months alongside a 3-star Michelin chef anywhere in the UK or the rest of Europe. as well as a£50 per week allowance and £1500expenses. Entrants have to suggest a recipe for salmon. the deadline is 31 Jan 1992. and entry forms are available from
Club International. Diners Club House. Kingsmead. Farnborough. Hampshire GU147SR.
2022 Maryhill Road. 946 5412. Mon—Fri noon—2pm; Mon—Thurs 5.30—10pm; Fri and Sat 5.30-1 1pm; Sun noon—2.30pm. 5.30pm—10pm. Closed Sal lunchtime. Laying claim to some of the best food and decor of any Glasgow restaurant to open this autumn. this Indian eaterie has paid immaculate attention to
floodlit lawn.
polo-club theme. The
more formal air than the neighbouring club room. which is like a set from The Far Pavilions or A Passage to India. Countless photos of pre-war polo teams. paintings of polo players and framed polo shirts adorn the walls. while polo goals (decorative only) sit outside on the
Wendy Smith. Diners
detail to its late colonial
The prices are very reasonable. making it less
expensive than some lesser establishments in the town centre. The majority of starters are under £3 and main courses vary from £6—f9. The cod in peanut butter is crafted with exceptional delicacy and the accompanying Basmati rice is simmered to perfection. For dessert. warm gulab jamun comes with a scoop of ice cream placed in the centre - a thoroughly delicious combination. (MP)
I Brasserie back The Barbizon Brasserie. 44 High Street (552 2070). has reopened after the fire that closed the East End
menu has been designed to provide both a full-service restaurant and alsolight snacks. and there‘s a special weekday service providing breakfasts from 8am.
Edinburgh
I Winetasting Peter Green & Co is presenting a wine tasting at the Queen‘s Hall at 7pm on
Tue 26 Nov. with guest
speaker Billy Bell 1
discussing the ports of Quinta do Noval. Tasting is £4 and £11 with supper , andticketsareavailablc ; from Peter Green. 37 Warrender Park Road.
fiction prize. Booker also has a competition to award excellence in pubs and this year the honour has gone to the canal-side Bridge Inn at Ratho. which has already been judged Children's Caterer of the Year and British Family Pub ofthe Year. I Pappa's 7 Victoria Street. 225 7306. Tue—Sun dinner from 5pm; Fri—Sun lunch from noon. While Mamma's continues to dish out its American pizzas in the Grassmarket. a companion restaurant has opened up the road
specialising in American
Barbizon complex this time last year. The new
I Booker Prize-winning Pub Better known for its
starters. soups. char grills. vegetarian dishes and
The List 8— zirQL—v-Einbcr l99l 77