F E S'll V A l
Catherine Fellows picks out the best places to eat and drink in the Tollcross area of Edinburgh, while on the next page Susan Mackenzie suggests some edible souvenirs of Scotland for those of you about to return to less civilised climes.
. Tollcross may not strike you as an
1‘
appealing place to spend an evening
« — unless ofcourse you are the ‘ eccentric who gets excited counting ' how many cars jump the lights on
each of the thundering
, thoroughfares which intersect here.
But you only have to follow a Green Man off your island perch. in almost any direction. to discover that the area has an enormous amount to offer in terms ofplaces to eat. and one or two watering holes well worth visiting.
Why there should be such a concentration of restaurants. particularly in Brougham Street which leads towards the Meadows. I don‘t know. but what is even more surprising and pleasing is that many are of such high quality. There is a strong Eastern emphasis, everything from the most basic. cheap and cheerful Chinese in Lauriston Place. and a rather fine one in Gilmore Place. to a Turkish restaurant in Leven Street. and Nastiuks. a city-famous Ukranian-run delicatessen and coffee house. a little further up in Bruntsfield. There is even a unique Japanese supermarket
. it
1 fed up waiting for service nearer the centre oftown.
ex I. ..
“Shy
A.“ ‘ ‘ f
which does takeaway sushi and lunchboxes. on Leven Street. And if you are looking for an Indian meal. there is no better place to find memorable cooking and. at this busy time of year. a seat on which to eat it. So consider Tollcross if you have tickets for the National Ballet of Cuba at the King's, or a late screening at the Cameo. or are just
I La Bagatelle 22a Brougham Place. 2290869. Mon—Sat noon—2pm.
6—1 1pm; Sun 6—10.30pm. Good French food just around the corner from the King‘s Theatre. Table d'hote and a la earte menus. Civilised enough to enjoy with your lover or your mother. Quite pricey.
I Bennets 8 Leven Street. 229 5143. Mon—Wed Ham—11.15pm;
Thurs—Sat 11am-12. 15am: Sun 7-1 1pm. This is a perfect rendezvous \ i for the King's Theatre. Bennets has a fabulous Victorian stained-glass frontage and a series ofeeiling-high mirrors inside the public bar. Though there is often more room in the back lounge. it pales in comparison.
I Mr Bonl’s - officially Boni’s Ice Cream Parlour. 4 Lochrin buildings. 229 5319. l().3()am—1()pm (until noon on Sun). Something ofa cult favourite - you can sit at the formica tables and order the most excessive sundae a grown-up child could
dream of. or simply take some of the
made-on-the-premises ice cream away with you.
I Cameo Bar Cameo Cinema. 38 Home Street. 228 4141. Noon-1am (Sun until 11pm). Recently refurbished. this is a stylish and
FM f Tolloro pmise
perhaps welcome alternative to the unabashed pub atmosphere of most of the bars in the area. You can usually find a seat and it is quiet enough to hold a conversation.
I Coconut Grove 3 Lochrin Terrace, 229 1569. ‘Loud. dark. loads of fun. good food, bring your own booze’ is how a certain List lady described this Mexican. favoured by riotous stag and hen parties and scene of the odd List night out. It is all those things, but beware —— the food. tacos in variations. can be extremely rich, with enough melted cheese to sink a sombrero.
I The Cottage Tandoori 6 Brougham Place. 229 3839. A classy Indian. which serves impressive and authentic-tasting food — plenty here for those not afraid of hot food.
I Eles Turkish Restaurant 42 Leven Street. 229 7833. 5pm—midnight. Traditional. tasty Turkish fare — assorted mezze and char—grilled
i kebabs.
I Filmhouse 88 Lothian Road, 228 6382. 10am until around 1am. Edinburgh‘s arthouse cinema doubles as a large, bland, but comfortable cafe-bar serving an
' appealing choice of main meals as , well as filled rolls and other snacks.
Photographic exhibitions normally on display.
' I The Golf Tavern 31 Wrights Houses. 2293235. Mon—Wed
“lam—midnight; Thurs—Sat lam; Sun 1 lam—11pm. A popular old-world pub with big, comfortable leather seats and good pub food. Heaving with relieved office workers on Friday evenings.
I Khan’s 6 Brougham Street, 229 1818. Noon-3pm, 5pm—midnight. Pleasant and unassuming tandoori
JONATHAN LITTLEJOHN
* baked potato stop.
jStrect.667 e712. 'Sun—Thurs until midnight.
F000
HIT LIST
Catherine Fellows's guide to all-day consumption.
RALPH BLAIR
I 80': Bar The place to meet The List staff. lfthat isn‘t enough. this bar has scrubbed wooden tables. benches made of doors and Warsteincr on tap. Calm. tasteful and unpretentious. it is a great place for a drink after frantic show-going — or wordprocessing. It also serves bar food all day until 7pm.
Black 80 's. 5 7 Black friars Street. 55 7 0136. Opens at noon every day. licensed until 2am (midnight Suns). Closes when barstaffsee
fit.
I Frultmarltet Gallery Cate A chic meeting and eating place. perfect for good coffee and croissants. Also soup. filled croissants. and a variety of intcrnationally-influenced light meals available. 29 Market Street, 225 2383. Mon—Sat 10am—8pm; Sun 11am—5pm.
I Round Table Restaurant Attractive Scandinavian caterie serving light and tasty lunches— open sandwiches, gravadlax ~ generous and good value. as well as more substantial meals.
3] Jeffrey Street. 55 73032. Mam—10pm.
I Chez Jules A certain Pierre. rather prominent on the Edinburgh restaurant scene. jumped at the chance ofan empty space during the Festival. and has gone anonymous in this yet more basic. more French venture. There are just three wines. red. white and rose. served from casks: big bowls of salad on the tables and a small. but far from modest menu. Here’s hoping this will outlive the Festival.
Chez Jules. 29 Coekburn
‘1 Street (Craig '3 Close). 225 i 7007. 5.30pm until Pierre
: has had enough — usually illuh.
I Potatoland
Ultra-generouslate-night
Potato/and 82 South Clerk
V
Food
What do you fancy? A glance at the exclusive wine list, or extra chllll sauce on your kebab? All culinary life I: here.
Fri and Sat until4am.
The List 23 — 29 August 1991 69