BACKLIST
and vegetables was the best idea he ever had. and it has worked out well for his competitors too. 'l‘hey are all on good tertns and. though there are constant price wars. they know that they rely on each other's success.
Mohammed came to Scotland from
Pakistan in 19(1‘). His family had been farmers. but he began his working life here in a restaurant. before opening his shop. l lis path was determined by the lack of alternatives and the desire to be self-employed. He has to pay a price for his autonomy though: at the market by Sam. six days a week. and behind the till until 8pm. Mohamrned talks of Sundays as a devout (‘hristian might talk of Heaven — on Sunday he only has to work from nine to five.
lle Used to be helped in the shop by
his wife. but haying just had their third baby. she now stays at home
While he is obviously pleased as punch with the present. Mohammed is not so sure what the future holds. He is extremely limited by space. and would love to expand into bigger premises. but he could never risk leaving Argyle Place. Perhaps the most telling indication of how he really feels about his life at the moment is his determination that his children will not work in the shop: eves glazed with tiredness. he told nie. ‘it is really too much work. much too much work'.
V IN PRINT
and he has a full-time assistant. Even j
so. he cannot take more time off because the success of the business relies upon his personal relationship with wholesalers and his discerning buying eye. I saw this at work when a supplier from Manchester arrived with a load of coriander. Mohammed quietly pulch a limp hunch from an earlier consignment and shook his head. As the supplier walked dejectedly out of the shop. Mohammed. as il‘out of compassion. sent his assistant after him for a couple of boxes of rnangos.
I Pastability—A Second Helping Lizzie Spender (Faber. £6.99). Lizzie Spender. actress daughter of Stephen Spender and wife of the inimitable Barry llumphries has produced another extremely useful hook. l tend to think of pasta dishes as something to be thrown together with whatever is at hand. but Spender’s recipes demonstrate what fantastic heights pasta can be taken to with a little more time. imagination and discernment. I would feel far happier serving friends with combinations such as linguini. anchovies. sun-dried tomatoes. black olives. parsley and lemon peel that have been tried by a reliable palate. than subject them to some experiment of my own.
Apart from delicious. really cookable recipes. there is a concise
Glasgow
I Rogano l l lixehange Place. 348 4055. Open Mon— 'l'hurs noon-l lpm: Fri and Sat
noon midnight; Sun
‘ - lllpm. ll you are looking for somewhere speetaetllat to lt.r\ c .i graduationcelebration lunch. dut tng July Rogano Islaytngon .i tisedptiec menu it] its tale
specifically aimed at graduatingstudents lot Ll: Flla head. If t\ olleiing a choice of soup. salmon and Lil t .tgon mousse or eacsai salad to star I . sptnaeli—stulled llllclsol sole. ltolselles ol lamb w ith redcuttant glaze. broccoli and sw eel potato prosenealc or \egetables with wine and cream sets ed in a brioche bun to follow . and finally. Austrian cottce cake. straw berries and cream or an Interesting cheese board. 'l‘he cafe stays open all afternoon. soyott will have ample time to enioy the unlimited supplies of coflee Ilieltttled
225 5028. Open seven days a week from 5pm. A great deal of work has gone into preparing these premises for business. and there is still a telling smell of freshly-applied emulsion in the air. You will find familiar favourites on this Chinese menu. but there are also some more unusual options such as scallops with ginger and spring onions (£7) and beefwith straw mushrooms (£5). It is notcheap. butthe cooking is reputed to be good. Unfortunately. there is practically nothing for vegetarians. Bring your own wine until the restaurant is issued with its licence on 29July. I Castle Rock Fish Bar87 Grassmarket. 225 2839. Open llam—l lpm. A regular chippy offering instant meals such as : chicken kicv and chop suey. in addition to haddock. trout and calamari rings. A standard fish supper is £2.20. What is more they are now using new potatoes— must be
yourselfa pint of history-
of 1091 this year‘s brew of the traditional Traquair House ale promises to be a hearty and potent liquor. Bottles are being sold as limited edition collector‘s items in celebration ofthe 500th anniversary ofthe Stuart family‘s occupation ofthe seat. For details. ring the brewery on 0896 830370.
I Theatre Workshop Cate/Bar 34 t lamilton l’lace. Stockbridge. 235 7“)42..\1on-—Sat
l lam—me (last food ot’tiet’fi. lipm).
{ lidinburgh l‘estiy al hours: Mon Sat S..‘~llarn~- late; Sun 1 lam-late). The first signsof lite attersix months of refurbishment at Theatre \Vorkshop. w ill take place on Mon ISJuIy when the cafe bar will re-open selling a wide range of inexpensive food with a Mediterranean influence. Dishes include Aubergine l’armigiano (£2.25). Moroccan (iottseous (£3). Apricot and Coriander-stuffed l.amb(£3.5t)) and Artichoke and Potato
and sweets. There's also a
onthe menu. mightysmallchips! I salariwnhlxnmn I Traqualr House M8 1 May onaisc (£1 .35). as I AnnivenaryBrewBuy wellasfilledrolls.salads
I The Regent Castle 1 10 West Bow, Grassmarket.
with an ‘extra special‘ oaky flavour and a gravity
carry-out service available.
FOOD
and informative introduction in which Spender dispels the myth about fresh pasta: apparently it is hardly ever served in Italy. and because it is seldom made with high protein durutn wheat flour. it lacks the prized springy. slightly chewy quality of other pasta when cooked to the ‘al dente’ stage. She also gives valuable advice that makes all the difference between delicious and just filling ~ for example. blacken red peppers under the grill and skin them for incomparable flavour: drain pasta. but not too thoroughly. don't leave it standing in the colander to
immediately to the pan and stir in a
the sauce is not ready.
A substantial part of the book is given over to oriental recipes. Spender is no purist. but makes use
a series of eclectic and mouthwatering dishes such as 'l’hai white fish with courgettes. noodles
noodles with prawns. broccoli and coriander; and pasta bows with salmon. soy sauce and sherry. ((‘atherine Fellows)
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Hcemsed PESCB ur‘arit:
LUNCH — 12—2.30pm EVENINGS — 6—1 lpm (last orders 10.30pm)
’lC),arichor‘ close Cockbu r‘m stpeet; EDIN Bl.) PGH
@umlmrttm Qatari '(ZhugvuL3391944
DINNER 6.30 pm. last orders 10.30 pm.
NOW OPEN FOR LUNCH WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY 11.45 am. last orders 2.00 pm.
FRESH SEAFOOD
also meat and vegetarian dishes
ofexotic flavours and ingredients in
and spicy green sauce; stir-fried egg
228 531451
turn into a solid mound. but return it
knob of butter or a slurp of olive oil if
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'l'helist 124735.lulyl‘)‘)l79