BAOKLIST
FLAVOUR OF THE FORTNIGHT
Kicking oil a series of articles in which local chels share their culinary secrets, . Fiona Bashlord ol Glasgow’s Two Fat Ladies marks the arrival of the wild salmon and sea trout season with two complementary recipes:
BAKED SALMON OR TROUT
it’s best to buy whole iish which range from 2lb—10Ib or more. Sprinkle salt in the gutted cavity and douse liberally 1 with white wine. Herbs such as i parsley, coriander and dill can be 1 included. Wrap the whole fish in tin foil 1 and bake in a moderate oven lor10—20 I mins depending on the size oi the iish. Uncover immediately and allow fish to cool. When ready to serve, simply peel off skin; the flesh will peel oil the bone. It can be served warm or at room temperature and is best with green peppercorn mayonnaise.
SALMON/TROUT KOULBIAKA
The left-over llesh orthe poached whole fish can also be be included in a Salmon/T rout Koulbiaka. Flake the fish
FOOD
Fiona Bashlord brings out the llavour ollish
llesh. Saute mushrooms in olive oil with crushed coriander seed and lemon juice. Cook some basmati rice with onion, bayleat and salt. Then mix the fish with the mushrgoms and the rice. Roll out four sheets oi lilo pastry brushed with butter and put mixture onto the layered iilo. Bake the log in a medium oven until golden brown. This dish is good served cold as well as hot and goes well with a salad of curly endive, radicchio and watercress.
Two Fat Ladies, 88 Dumbarton Road, Glasgow (041 3391944).
decorating it with the distinctive split almonds. Goodfellows has been baking the cake since 1897, and. happily. continues to do so.
Another Dundee success story is Wm Low. This rapidly expanding supermarket chain had familiar beginnings. In 1868. James Low opened a grocers shop in Hunter Street, Dundee. Three years later he began manufacturing bread, confectionery and preserves. Then he did something about which he would be kicking himself had his ambition been to see his name emblazoned in red all over the country a century later. He sold the retail side of the business to his brother William!
Dundee Cake
Taken from the Goodfellow & Steven
recipe book compiled in 1914.
802 butter or high grade vegetable lat
Bozsugar :
1002 shell egg i
1202 llour
ldozsunanas I
602 liner cut orange peel !
4 oz split almonds i l
All ingredients should be warmed to around 80°F before starting to make u the cake. Rub butter into 802 of the flour. Mix well then beat on fast speed for six minutes. Whisk together eggs and sugar and add to batter while mixing on slow speed. Scrape down the basin and mix for a further minute. Carefully mix in fruits and remaining flour. Place ‘ cake batter in baking tin. Decorate top of batter with almonds and bake in oven at 300°F.
V IN PRINT
I Grace Mulligan's Dundee Kitchen Grace Mulligan (David Winter &
Son Ltd, Dundee. £3.95 plus 50p p&p). At first glance. the panoramic view of Dundee on the cover of this little book by the presenter of Yorkshire TV’s Farmhouse Kitchen looks picturesque. almost Colin Baxter. But ifyou peer through the photographer‘s artful blue mist effect. and past the bright cameo portrait of the author. you can still make out the stark blocks of Cheapskate 70s buildings. and the damp pedestrians sloshing through
Perthshire children’s
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grace:
Doon head
Up paws
Thank God
We’ve jaws
Amen. from Grace Mulligan 's Dundee Kitchen.
pavement puddles into Boots. This
might seem a superficial
observation, but it seems to me that
it has a bearing on a lot of the recipes
inside. I greatly enjoyed reading this book i
which is published in conjunction
with the 800 celebrations. It is like
unearthing an old newspaper that
ran adverts for lislc stockings and
sold for 2d. It describes sweet shops
in which a piece of newspaper would
be rolled into a cone or poke to hold
a selection ofsoor plums, snowballs,
aniseed and horehound bilings
(boiled sweets). It has recipes for
cinder toffee. tablet. sherbet. fly
cemetery (currants and raisins in
custard sandwiched between two
sheets of pastry) and pavey stanes
(hard biscuits coated with even
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List3l May— lSJune 1991 81