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WHY IT’S HARD TO CROSS WAVERLEY BRIDGE WITHOUT STOPPING
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ACANTHUS CAFE BAR
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With the Glorious Twelfth behind us, Scotland enters one of the few areas when it can gastronomically rival others, the ‘shooting season‘. With its tracts ofopen moorland and rolling hillsides, uninhabited by man, our wee birdies and larger beasties flourish. Lucky for us or we would not have so many to do away with for the sport or the dinner table.
Game is essentially free with closed seasons protecting the birds and animals during their vastly different breeding seasons. The 12th of August marks the beginning of the open season for grouse whilst pheasant, capercaillie. ptarmigan, widgeon, and partridge follow behind. Whilst these are all quite substantial specimens, some game birds are small enough to
. fit neatly onto one‘s slice of toast. Fortunately we
do not have the same enthusiasm as the Italians for decimation of their songbird population , many ofwhich are not big enough to fit on a
cocktail oatcake.
The monarch of the glens or one of his antecedents is another popular guest at the dinner table, although like a lot of game its strong taste has become too natural for our sanitized palates. Deer farming now provides us with as many venison steaks and sausages as our
barbecues can take.
STOCKISTS
I Baxter: ol Speyside sell game soup and several types of game birds tinned for your convenience, an antidote to baked beans. Available through Peckharns, Jenner: and good grocers.
I For all you Asterix fans,
wild boar can be had in cured form ‘Cinghiale‘ or in sausages from: Valvona & Crolla19 Elm Row, EH7, 031 556 6066 and Fazzi Brothers 63 Cambridge Street, G3, 041 332 0941.
Glasgow
I Bernard Corrigan Fishmongers 184—200 Howard Street, 552 4368. Game stocked according to availability and season. I Alan Beveridge Fishmonger various branches. A variety of game birds are always available along with a regular supply of rabbits. For further details check with individual branches.
Edinburgh
I George Campbell a Son
Ltd 18 Stafford St. E113. 225 7507. 8am—5pm Tue—Fri; 8am—noon Mon and Sat. A full range of game is stocked frozen throughout the year with grouse available when in season. All produce is Scottish without additives or preservatives and is plucked and dressed on the premises. I George Bower Butchers 75 Raeburn Place. EH4. 332 3469. 7.30am—5.30pm Mon—Fri; 7.30am—5pm Sat. Established since 1907 with Scottish venison, pigeons, rabbits, hares. grouse, pheasant. turkey, duck and geese available all year round. All produce is plucked and dressed on the premises and contains no additives or preservatives. Why not try their venison sausages!
RESTAURANTS Glasgow
I Killennont House 2022 Maryhill Road, 620, 946 5412. Tue-Fri noon—2.30pm, 6.30—10.30pm; Sun
noon-2.30pm. Extensive range of Scottish game (personally shot by the chef!) available when in season. for example. roast venison and freshly made cranberry sauce. The table d'hotc five course menu is priced at £18.50. I ‘I‘he Buttery 652 Argyle Street. G3, 221 8188. Mon—Sat noon-2.30 (not Sat); Bar 6—10pm and Restaurant 7—10pm. Closed Sunday. Game including guinea fowl and cream of venison soup starters and pigeon and grouse main courses served according to season. The restaurant participates in the ‘Taste of Scotland‘ scheme and all ingredients are supplied fresh daily. Dinner per head including drinks and service is £35. I October 128 Drymen Road. Bearsden, G61. 942 7272. Tue—Sat noon—2.30pm, 7pm—l().30pm. Regular game dishes according to season with the menu changing every two months. Particularly recommended when available is their pheasant — ‘a bracing experience’ according to the manager! Prices average £23 per head including drinks.
Edinburgh
I Le Marche Noir 2—4 Eyre Place. 558 1608. Mon—Sat noon—2.30pm, 7— 10pm (Fri/Sat to 1 1pm) Superior French provincial food with regular choice of game according to season and occasional wild boar. Recent offerings included pigeon and venison from Mull with partridge, rabbit and pheasant scheduled to make an appearance later in the year. Lunch £8; dinner £12/l7.50. I Keepers 138 Dundas Street 556 5707. Mon—Sat open for lunch and dinner, last orders 10—10.30pm. Game , including venison, wild boar, pheasant and grouse available all year round. As a member of the ‘Taste of Scotland‘ scheme produce is to as great an extent as possible Scottish, supplied in the main by a Borders shooting club. Main dishes range from £4.50—9. I The Vintner's Room The Vaults, 87 Giles Street, Leith, 554 6767. Mon—Sun noon—3pm, 5.30—10pm. Intimate, classy, candle-lit surroundings make The Vintner‘s Room ideal for a special evening. The fruity, rich flavourings used are ideally suited to game with duck, venison and partridge appearing regularly on the menu. Splash out on the dinner a la carte with prices around £50.
70 The List 1- 14 September 1989