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gu— SAC
New Cafe Bar
Wholesome food for around £2 11am — 1 1 pm
44—46 Ashton Lane, Glasgow 041 334 8899
88
CAFE/ BAR
DEVASTATINGLY
DIFFERENT
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ITS PARTY TIME
SO BOOK WITH US A PARTY OF 20 - AND GET THE FAMOUS FINGER BUFFET TREATMENT AT CAFE BIARRITZ
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E T 99? Z BAR NONE
61 FREDERICK srj EDINBURGH
TEL: 03l-225 5244
LICENCED RESTAURANT 38 HANOVER STREET EDINBURGH
MON - SAT: 12 noon« lam SUNDAY: lpm- 10.30pm
Phone: 031-225 1796
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LIST
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GLASGOW
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Prices in brackets are cost ola three-course meallor two with a bottle at house wine.
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VAT RETURNS
Fiona Roberts is more tamiliarwith
spittoons than an 18th-century tavern keeper. One of the lucky few who can lay claim. without a blush or broken vein. to daily wine-qualling lorthe past six years. herwork sometimes involves sampling a dozen young red wines belore ollices elevenses — a daunting prospect lor even the most dedicated tippler. Fiona. however. is no ordinary drinker. ln tact. she rarely swallows. One oi the best-trained palates in the country. she is a Master Of Wine—oi 130 in Britain only 15 are women — employed by Grants oi St James‘s in London. Fiona not only advises on the hundreds of hopeiul wines shipped in
tor attention. but travels the country giving advice to businessmen on how to pronouncethose tricky Beaujolais
numbers and suggesting to barmen that once opened. wine can‘t be served three weeks Iateras it itwere orange
squash. Edinburgh-born and
Cambridge-educated. Fiona began as ‘tea-boy‘ in a wine company. working herwayto hermastership through three rigorous years at training and hawkeyed scrutiny ol Wine Masters as they swilled. spat. and passed their Iottyjudgements. Austere. god-like ligures. Masters Ol Wine emerged with the growing post-war interest in wine. As a novice. Fiona‘s reaction to these deities was sweaty-palmed. not unlike the tear many sutler when laced with a wine list and a supercilious waiter. Plumping lorthe house wine. however. though it seems like the coward's choice. is probably the best decision. ‘ll it‘s good then you know it‘s worth
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paying more lortheir other wines.‘ A connoisseur in an area logged with mystique. Fiona sees herself as a
prophet in an uninlormed wilderness. ‘Wine istun. lwant people to come
along to my courses and have a great weekend.‘ Virtually no one. she
. claims. is‘palate-blind'.and she
' stresses that there should be ‘absolutely no snobbery about wine.‘ In other words. everyone can now enjoy
, snilting and spitting.
Fiona Masters will be running Grants ol StJames's lirst Scottish Wine Appreciation course at the Ellersley
House Hotel. Edinburgh. 15—17April.
The weekend is residential and costs
£107 perperson. Furtherdetails
available lrom Grants at St James‘s
School of Wine. Moorlield Road.
Guildlord. Surrey. 0483 302301.
(Rosemary Goring)
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