BACK LIST
DAVID HARROLD
EDINBURGH
I Loon Fung 2 Warriston Place. 556 1781/557 0940. Sammy Tam left China for Hong Kong when he was five. In 1977 he came to Edinburgh and became a chef in his father‘s restaurant. which he now manages. When the place was well established, a sister restaurant was opened in Grindlay Street. The Loon Fungs specialise in seafood dishes and are famed for their lemon chicken. Loon Fung number one is decorativer plain, though the extensive Cantonese menu is reasonably priced and includes a selection of
Dim Sum.
Sammy Tam maintains he is too busy to eat out much and that on his evenings off he has little desire to Spend three hours eating Chinese food. ‘Also I like my own cooking,‘ he grins. However, if the occasion arises he may take a trip to the Bamboo Garden which serves mainly Cantonese cuisine. or the New World Restaurant in Bruntsfield. also Cantonese. ‘Both these restaurants serve authentic Chinese food which Westerners might find a bit strange — like tripe. They are always full on Sunday afternoons, when Chinese families go out.‘
Although he prefers Cantonese to Pekinese Sammy Tam recommends the New Edinburgh Rendezvous in the West End for Peking-style cuisine. ‘A lot ofChinese people go there as well.‘
I New Edinburgh Rendezvous 10a Queensferry Road, 225 2023. Tucked away on the first floor of a grim-looking building, the Rendezvous has an air of faded grandeur. spacious and formal without being stiflineg smart. Contrary to what its name suggests, it specialises in Pekinese food. serving favourites like Peking Duck as well as more unusual dishes such as thousand year eggs and shredded sea blubber.
According to the manager Peter Ng, Peking food is simply ‘all the best cuisine in China, originating from the capital.‘ Northern cuisine (Pekinese) uses noodles and dumplings, while Southern cuisine (Cantonese) is based more on rice dishes.
Originating from Hong Kong. Peter Ng was brought up with Cantonese food and still has a taste
for it. ‘Ninety-nine per cent of Hong Kong is Cantonese. though you can ofcourse get anything you want there.‘ For variation as much as anything he likes to be served food which he cannot get in his own restaurant, when he dines out. consequently the four restaurants preferred are all Cantonese. ‘The New World Restaurant and the Bamboo Garden are both good and they serve Dim Sum. There‘s also a place which has just opened up called the Asian Gardens. I‘ve been to a good place in Glasgow too. the New City Restaurant in Sauchiehall Street.‘
I Lunetown 38 William Street. 220 1688. Stylish and intimate. Lunetown has a more Westernised air than most Chinese restaurants. The menu mixes Cantonese and Pekinese cuisine. seafood being the most popular.
The restaurant was opened ten years ago by Stephan Chan. who came over from Hong Kong in 1965. Like many of those involved in Chinese catering. Chan prefers to eat European food when he goes out for a meal. However. if he does dine out at a Chinese restaurant it is likely to be the Bamboo Garden or the New World Restaurant. Choosing between the two he would settle fora meal at the Bamboo Garden which is the ‘more comfortable. ifa bit pricier.‘ Both these establishments prepare Dim Sum. also known as High Tea. an afternoon event which involves several rounds ofdelicate snacks. ‘Very popular with Chinese families as they can bring their children.‘ remarks Chan.
I The Bamboo Garden 57a Frederick Street. 225 2382. The tantalising aroma wafting through the Bamboo
FOOD
Garden hints at why this establishment is so popular amongst the Chinese. An extensive. carefully prepared menu containing authentic. Cantonese dishes is another. Phoenix Claws. prosaically subtitled as Chicken Feet. are one of the more unusual offerings. along with spring onion pancakes. several seaweed dishes and orange chicken coated with almonds.
This is a smart. relaxed restaurant. one ofthe few which serves Dim Sum. ‘lt‘s like your Sunday lunch.‘ remarks the proprietor Henry Tse. who also owns a greengrocer‘s in Argyle Place and a fishmonger‘s in Warrender Park Road. ‘In Hong Kong people will queue for hours for it.‘
‘Before I opened this restaurant in 1986. I used to eat at the Lee On. l‘m good friends with the owner who provides inexpensive meals.‘ Now Henry Tse will eat out when he wants to be in relaxed surroundings. 'The Maple Inn opposite the Usher Hall is very convenient for us. We close at midnight. they close at 1am. The Loon Fung have a good reputation. as does the Kweilin. Then there‘s Orchid Lodge which is more popular amongst the local Scottish population. The Edinburgh Rendezvous and the Premier Mandarin are good Peking restaurants. and then there‘s The Heavenly also popular with the locals. Edinburgh is very lucky for food. There are many Chinese chefs, some ofwhom were famous in Hong Kong. In the old days local people had a limited knowledge. they ate European Chinese dishes. Now even takeaways promote expensive dishes.‘
RECOMMENDED
I New City Restaurant 84/92 Sauchiehall Street, 332 6265. Mon-Sun
Frederick Street. 225 2382. Mon—Sun noon-midnight.
447 8096. Mon—Sat noon-2pm noon—2pm.
5.30—1 1.30pm; Sun
5.30pm—midnight. Closed for Chinese New Year
2pm—l .3()am; Sun noon—1.30am. I Orchid Lodge 15a Castle
GLASGOW noon—midnight. I Edinburgh Rendezvous 5.30—1 1.30pm. Closed from 28-30 Jan. Street. 226 2505. Mon—Fri 10a Queensferry Street, 29-31 Jan. I Mame "m Chin-989 noon—2PM 5Pm—late; Sat I No Wong 82 York 225 2023. Mon—Sun I Kweilin Restaurant Restaurant 44 Grmdlay noon-midnight: Sun Street, 221 3550. I Asian Gardens Cadzow noon-2pm. 19—21 Dundas Stree. 556 Street 228 4438~ Win-midnight Closed for Mon-Sun noon—11.30pm. Place, Abbey Hill. 661 5.30—1 1 . 15pm. Closed for 1752. Mon—Sat Mon—Sun 5Pm-lam- Chinese New Year 28 I Loon Fung Restaurant 3066. Mon-Fri 2pm—2am; Chinese New Year 28—30 noon—1 1pm; Sun 5—1 1pm. I "9‘" WWW Restaurant 7 J an—7 Feb. 417 Sauchiehall Street. Sat 2pm-midnight; Sun Jan. Closed 28—31 Jan. Barda)’ Placer 229 1781~ I PNMlBr Mandarin 332 1240. Mon—Sun noon—midnight. I The Heavenly Restaurant I Lee On 3/4 Bruntsfield Mon—Thurs 2pm—l .3()am; culsm 8b Abcrcmmb)’ noon—11.30pm. l I Bamboo Garden 57a 155 Morningside Road, Place, 229 7732. Mon—Sun Fri 6pm—l .3()am; Sat Place. 556 23215560653. PACHUKO “‘ CANTINA ‘
’The Mexican Experience’
:‘.:::. “\j $53
OPENING TIMES Lunch: Mon—Sat 12—2pm Dinner: Mon—Sat 6—12pm; Sun 7-10pm Booking Advisable - 031 228 1345
Pachuko Can fina . n __ 3vae Street, Edinbu {pi w W
L Bring your own bottle!
20 WAYS YOU CAN HELP YOUR PLANET — TODAY! FIND OUT- CALL NOW ON 0898 884564
calls charged at 38p peak 25p at other times
J.C. Services 17 Meadowburn Avenue LENZIE G66 5ND
Ubiquitou: Chip
Gill-554 5001
Wine Shop
Advocaat, Benedictine, Claret, Drambuie, Eiswien, Fino, Glenlivet, Hock, Italian, Jura, Kahlua, Laphroaig, Madeira, Nuit St Georges, Ouzo, Port, Quaich, Rioja, Sparkly, Talisker, Ubiquitous Vouvray, Whisky, X0 Brandy, YQuem, Zinfandel . . . and there’s more!
8 nthton lone,GlmgowGl2
The List 26 January— 8 February 199067